Xref: utzoo sci.electronics:6601 rec.autos.tech:8657 Path: utzoo!utgpu!jarvis.csri.toronto.edu!rutgers!tut.cis.ohio-state.edu!cwjcc!neoucom!wtm From: wtm@neoucom.UUCP (Bill Mayhew) Newsgroups: sci.electronics,rec.autos.tech Subject: Re: parasitic anodes for rust prevention ??? Summary: active electrode fiasco Keywords: corrosion, causes, misconceptions Message-ID: <1658@neoucom.UUCP> Date: 15 Jun 89 04:05:49 GMT References: <11854@bloom-beacon.MIT.EDU> <4345@druco.ATT.COM> <3220@kitty.UUCP> <3223@kitty.UUCP> Sender: wfd@neoucom.UUCP Distribution: usa Organization: Northeastern Ohio Universities College of Medicine Lines: 29 When I was in college, I knew a guy who was a chemical engineering student that got the bright idea of trying to rig up an active anode on his Ford Fairmont. He would up eating the hell out out of several parts of the unibody where it joined the front subframe within a couple months of time. I'd strongly recommend debugging one's technique on a car that one can afford to mess up before trying it out on the ole Porsche 944. I live in northeast Ohio which uses more winter road salt than most other parts of the US. I've found that the best method of rust prevention is to frequnently wash the car. I have a 1983 AMC Alliance (no laughing please) that's got about 73K miles on it. It has received no rust prevention other than what it got from the manufacturer; to date, it has virtually no corrosion problems. What I'd like to know is if those cars that have stainless steel exhaust systems never need to have the pipes replaced. So far, I've nver been able to get a tailpipe/muffer to last more than about 4 years. Spend a buck a week and go to one of those do-it-yourself car washes with the power wand and wash out the underside of your car. Salt is a four-letter word, Bill email to: wtm@impulse.UUCP