Path: utzoo!utgpu!jarvis.csri.toronto.edu!cs.utexas.edu!samsung!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!emory!stiatl!rsiatl!jgd From: jgd@rsiatl.UUCP (John G. De Armond) Newsgroups: sci.electronics Subject: Machining Plexiglas (was : Project Enclosures) Message-ID: <1170@rsiatl.UUCP> Date: 15 Jan 90 05:54:35 GMT References: <126@gazette.bcm.tmc.edu> <25869@cup.portal.com> <847.25aff5f4@simpact.com> Reply-To: jgd@rsiatl.UUCP (John G. De Armond) Organization: Radiation Systems, Inc. (a thinktank, motorcycle, car and gun works facility) Lines: 34 In article <847.25aff5f4@simpact.com> jeh@simpact.com writes: > (Mark Robert Thorson) writes: >> You can also cut it with a straight handsaw, like what you would use on >> plywood. That produces a cleaner edge. Most power tools don't work very >> well on Plexiglas. > >In my limited experience, a small table saw will work fine, PROVIDED that you >have a carbide-tipped blade in it. Expensive, but will last a long time. >Or, the Plexiglas dealers sell special blades for the purpose. But scribe >cutting as described by Mark is fine for working with eighth-inch stuff. >In quarter-inch I've usually found that the scriber makes too curved an >edge for gluing -- I don't feel like filing down variations that large. >No doubt my technique needs to be improved. I've found an even easier way to cut plexiglass than that. Use pretty much any fine toothed saw and direct a strong stream of compressed on the kerf. I use a blowgun with a clamp attached. The tip is about 1/4" away from the blade. This blast of very cold air will stop localized melting which is the root of most cutting problems. I use this on both a sabre saw and a circle saw. I run the circle saw on a variac to slow it down a bit for more controlability but I suspect it would work fine at full speed. I've tried a water mister but it makes a bloody mess and is no more efficient at cooling. John -- John De Armond, WD4OQC | The Fano Factor - Radiation Systems, Inc. Atlanta, GA | Where Theory meets Reality. emory!rsiatl!jgd **I am the NRA** |