Xref: utzoo trial.rec.metalworking:5 rec.woodworking:3900
Path: utzoo!utgpu!news-server.csri.toronto.edu!rutgers!bionet!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ns-mx!pyrite.cs.uiowa.edu
From: jones@pyrite.cs.uiowa.edu (Douglas W. Jones,201H MLH,3193350740,3193382879)
Newsgroups: trial.rec.metalworking,rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: need info on historic locks
Message-ID: <1825@ns-mx.uiowa.edu>
Date: 9 Jul 90 21:24:17 GMT
References: <7059@scolex.sco.COM>
Sender: news@ns-mx.uiowa.edu
Followup-To: trial.rec.metalworking
Distribution: usa
Lines: 30

From article <7059@scolex.sco.COM>, by daveu@sco.COM (Dave Uebele):
> 
> I am planning to build a small presentation case for a civil war era revolver ...
> Does anyone know what types of locks were available or in use during this
> time period ...
>

I've got the lock you want, but I'm keeping it.  The pin-tumbler idea dates back to ancient
Egypt, but it wasn't common on padlocks in the 1860's.  The most common padlocks of that
era were warded locks (where the wards prevent the key from turning unless it has slots
matching the shapes of the wards).  The cheepest of todays Master padlocks are crude warded
locks, and you can find others at many antique shows.

My favorite old locks from the 19th century are the lever action locks.  These are round,
usually three inches in diameter and 3/4 inch thick brass, with a slot in one edge.  The hasp
is a bar that fits in this slot, notched in the side so when it's pushed radially in, a closed
hole about 1/2 inch diameter passes through the edge of the lock.  When you unlock the lock,
the hasp pops out (pushed by a spring), allowing you to slide it off whatever you locked.

The key is a flat blace with steps cut across its working end.  You stick the working end into
the keyhole (a slot) in the bottom of the lock, and each step pushes on a lever.  If each lever
is pushed the right distance, a row of notches in the sides of the levers are aligned, and the
hasp can open.

I got my lock without a key, chiseled the thing open (it was riveted shut), made a key, and put
it back together.  The old brass was malliable enough that I managed to do this without
damaging the rivet heads, and the lock is now quite servicable and looks as good as new!

					Doug Jones
					jones@herky.cs.uiowa.edu