Path: utzoo!utgpu!news-server.csri.toronto.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!lll-winken!quintro!bpdsun1!rmf
From: rmf@bpdsun1.uucp (Rob Finley)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: Wire wrap appliques.
Message-ID: <1990Jul29.203854.2529@bpdsun1.uucp>
Date: 29 Jul 90 20:38:54 GMT
References: <90208.130912WOLPERT@MAINE.BITNET>
Reply-To: rmf@bpdsun1.UUCP (Rob Finley)
Organization: Harris Broadcast Div., Quincy, IL
Lines: 33

In article <90208.130912WOLPERT@MAINE.BITNET> WOLPERT@MAINE.BITNET writes:
>I'm going to be doing a good amount of assembly of wire wrapped prototypes.
>I've heard tell of labels that you peel off and stick down on the circuit
>board alongside the WW socket.  THese labels are numbered and make it much
>easier to find the correct pin on the underside of the socket.


Are you going to be making a board with a lot of digital or other "noisy"
circuits on it?  My first inclination would be to hand-make a pcb with
all of the power and ground traces ONLY with the addition of all discrete
resistors, capacitors, bypass capacitors and such.  This could be done
easily with the Radio Shack decal system (which works extremely well for
it's cost) on a blank piece of PCB material.

This will save you WEEKS of hair pulling later in the form
of loose connections, overloading the power wires, better electrical
characteristics, and such.  It will also save you bucks by negating the
need for sockets just to fill with headers infested with resistors and
caps.

Back to your question, I usually used a piece of 10 by 10 graph paper and
hand numbered the IC's and even included the pin functions.  Something
you might do with a photocopier handy.  I then used rubber cement to 
permanently attatch it to the underside of the board.  The decals you are 
searching for seem to be limited in their function and are rather expensive.  
Plus, you could probably tear out the graph paper when you are done.

Good luck with your endeavors.

-----
 "Lets go kick some Earthling butt!" -- Spaced Invaders

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