Path: utzoo!censor!geac!torsqnt!news-server.csri.toronto.edu!clyde.concordia.ca!thunder.mcrcim.mcgill.edu!snorkelwacker.mit.edu!apple!julius.cs.uiuc.edu!usc!samsung!munnari.oz.au!bruce!trlluna!rhea!aduncan From: aduncan@rhea.trl.oz (Allan Duncan) Newsgroups: comp.sys.amiga.hardware Subject: Re: The Amiga Mouse Message-ID: <2570@trlluna.trl.oz> Date: 6 Jan 91 23:22:09 GMT References: <7384@sugar.hackercorp.com> Sender: news@trlluna.trl.oz Lines: 31 From article <7384@sugar.hackercorp.com>, by peter@sugar.hackercorp.com (Peter da Silva): > The amiga mouse is a nice mouse, it feels great, and the roller mechanicals > are very rugged. *BUT* those damn bubble switches have got to go. > -- I'm still running my 1000 mouse from way back when. Over the years I have had to - Re-terminate _both_ ends of the cable (the flexing breaks it a few inches from the strain relief). The mouse end was easy, you just pull the cable through the strain relief, but the other end was a cow, with the moulded 90 deg. shape and soldered-in connector shielding. Replace the switches a couple of times. Although they are better than the dimples, they still fail. Completely remove the black plastic assembly to get at the idler wheel shaft to properly clean it (experience with a solder sucker essential). The 2000 here at work has dimples, and gave me trouble once, so I peeled back the sticky and cleaned them with alcohol. I then got a conversion kit, but the threat of it has kept the dimples honest, and it is still sitting in the drawer for a couple of years. Both mice have nickel plated brass rollers - I've seen samples of the steel ones in shops, and they are corroded easily. Lastest ones seem to be a plastic material - but I haven't seen a well-used one yet. Allan Duncan ACSnet a.duncan@trl.oz (03) 541 6708 ARPA a.duncan%trl.oz.au@uunet.uu.net UUCP {uunet,hplabs,ukc}!munnari!trl.oz!a.duncan Telecom Research Labs, PO Box 249, Clayton, Victoria, 3168, Australia.