Path: utzoo!utgpu!news-server.csri.toronto.edu!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!lll-winken!unixhub!shelby!siegman@sierra
From: siegman@sierra.STANFORD.EDU (siegman)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: Garage door openers (was 12 V car -> 3 V cd)
Message-ID: <69@sierra.STANFORD.EDU>
Date: 6 Jan 91 01:25:00 GMT
References: <5910003@hpihoah.cup.hp.com>
Organization: Stanford University
Lines: 29


>>BTW - It's really neat having a working button on the dash to raise the
>>door.  Ther's also the security angle that if you get power from a
>>source that turns on with the accessories, someone can't raise the
>>door by breaking into your car when it's parked in the driveway.  Also
>>no need to think about opener batteries...
>
>Where did you mount the transmitter so that it can radiate effectively?  Most
>of them are kind of wimpy and if you mount them in a typical out of the way
>place the car body would block off the signal pretty effectively. 
>
>Has anyone else tried this?

Some models of Dodge Caravan have an overhead console (on the ceiling
between the two front seats) with map lights, a kind of door that
drops down when clicked, with a case inside where you can put a pair
of sunglasses, and another such door over an opening just big enough
for a standard garage door opener control.

You stick your regular control unit up into the opening, button side
down, with a velcro strip (comes with the van) on the other side; the
velcro holds the opener in place against a similar strip up inside the
opening.  Then close the door, which has a small ajustable stud on the
inside positioned just under the opener button.

Pushing up lightly on the door when it's closed triggers the garage
door opener; pushing harder clicks the door open so you can remove the
control unit.  Works OK for me, after a little fiddling to get things
positioned right.