Path: utzoo!censor!geac!torsqnt!lethe!yunexus!ists!helios.physics.utoronto.ca!news-server.csri.toronto.edu!bonnie.concordia.ca!thunder.mcrcim.mcgill.edu!snorkelwacker.mit.edu!apple!usc!samsung!uakari.primate.wisc.edu!umriscc!mcs213j.cs.umr.edu!robf From: robf@mcs213j.cs.umr.edu (Rob Fugina) Newsgroups: sci.electronics Subject: Re: YMHWQ (Yet more house-wiring questions) Keywords: wiring, electric meter, KWH Message-ID: <1921@umriscc.isc.umr.edu> Date: 11 Jan 91 18:08:41 GMT References: <1864@gold.gvg.tek.com> Sender: news@umriscc.isc.umr.edu Organization: University of Missouri - Rolla Lines: 18 In article <1864@gold.gvg.tek.com> grege@gold.gvg.tek.com (Greg Ebert) writes: >While on the subject of house wiring and kWh meters, my former residence >had 2 legs of a 208 3-phase system for wiring (I verified w/ scope). I >just realized that my kWh meter probably UNDER-read my actual energy >consumption because for a line-to-neutral resistive load, the current >and voltage peaks are 30 degrees out-of-phase with eachother. For >line-to-line resistive loads, the voltage and current are in-phase, thus >it would read correctly. Anyone concur ? I don't know how kWh meters work, so I can't tell you anything about how it would measure your power consumption, but I can tell you this. As far as line-to-neutral lines in your house are concerned, they would all work correctly...BUT, anything that you have connected line-to-line, like an electric furnace, water heater, or stove/oven, they're not getting the 220v RMS that they're supposed to get...they're only getting 1.73 * 110 instead of 2 * 110. They're getting 190.5v RMS. Rob robf@cs.umr.edu