Path: utzoo!utgpu!news-server.csri.toronto.edu!cs.utexas.edu!helios!tamuts!n368bq
From: n368bq@tamuts.tamu.edu (Raoul Rodriguez)
Newsgroups: comp.sys.amiga.hardware
Subject: Re: My Monitor Keeps Falling Asleep!
Message-ID: <11846@helios.TAMU.EDU>
Date: 6 Feb 91 15:05:35 GMT
References: <20912@know.pws.bull.com> <8973@star.cs.vu.nl>
Sender: usenet@helios.TAMU.EDU
Organization: Texas A&M University
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here we go again.... I have been posting this through e-mail to those
people who said that they had this problem, but, I'll put it on the
net (sorry about the bandwidth) for everyone to see, especially those
who are afarid to write to the net... :)

O.K... The problem you are having with the 1084 Monitor, is that there
is a cold (broken) solder joint on the motherboard of the monitor.  This
has the same effect as if the power had been cut. In the early stages, 
a good solid "whack" to the side of the monitor case will bring back 
the picture (it will sound as if you are just turning the monitor on
(which in effect you are)).
 
I had the same problem, at first, it was simply an annoyance, but it got
progresivly worse and worse until I could not really do much computing.
I decided to something about it.  I took the case off (don't forget the
screws on the back by the knobs and buttons (it is connected to the 
motherboard, and if you forget to take it off the case can be difficult
to remove)).  After digging around for a bit, I discovered that if I 
pressed on the metal shielding between the motherboard and the bottom of
the plastic case the picture would come on (I did this with the power
on, which is a serious no-no).
 
I should mention that if you have never worked on a monitor before, 
you should find someone who has, because the monitor can build up a
fairly sizeable charge and possibly even kill you if you touch the
wrong stuff.
 
After finding the "problem" I jerry-rigged it by placing some unused
disks between the case and the metal shielding to press the shielding 
into the motherboard to complete the broken connection.  But this is
merely a temporary fix, after a few months, it will start up again,
but it will be much harder to fix.
 
After I got back home (I fixed it while I was at school), I found
out that my local C= dealer wouldn't fix it, they would only do
a complete motherboard change ($180).  I decided to seek advice 
else where, a friend of mine knew about monitors, and he and I
(more he than I) fixed the problem, and this is how it is done...
 
Take off the monitor case (as I said (wrote) before, remeber the 
screws on the back near the RCA style jacks), and after disconnecting
the motherboard from the picture tube (remeber what wires went 
where) solder off the metal shielding on the bottom of the motherboard.
 
Visually inspect the solder joints to see if you can find the broken
solder joint(s).  You should find the general area before hand by
pressing on the metal shielding in different locatins until the picture
comes back on (again, this has a large element of danger!).  You can
also find the broken joint by torquing the board, and listining for 
the cracks (only someone who KNOWS what they are doing should 
attempt this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!), and after locating the broken joints,
re-solder them.  And put the case back together, and you are done.
Well, don't forget to test it first...
 
Another note here, don't mess with any of the dials and knobs inside
the monitor case, these are the focus and other sensitive controls
put out of the way of prying fingers for a reason (they are a pain
to get back right (trust me)).
 
If you need any further help, lemme know, and once again, the monitor
can build up quite a charge that lasts for weeks after the monitor is
turned off, find an experienced person to help (do it for) you.
 
Hope this helps...

Raoul "My 500 Has a Detachable Keyboard" Rodriguez
n368bq@tamuts.tamu.edu
Standard Disclaimers Apply (Within)