Path: utzoo!utgpu!news-server.csri.toronto.edu!rpi!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uakari.primate.wisc.edu!erb1!osnome!hunting From: rlp@druwa.ATT.COM (PrehnRL) Newsgroups: rec.hunting Subject: Re: Bowhunting for the first time Summary: Book & equipment recomendations Message-ID: <483@erb1.engr.wisc.edu> Date: 4 Apr 91 12:56:37 GMT References: <450@erb1.engr.wisc.edu> Sender: news@erb1.engr.wisc.edu Distribution: world Lines: 126 Approved: hunting@osnome.che.wisc.edu In article <450@erb1.engr.wisc.edu>, marko@hutch (Mark O'Shea) writes: > I have finally decided to take up bow hunting for deer this fall. > > I have ordered my bow and should have it in a week or so. I plan to > practice at least once a week between now and the season opener-Aug 25. > I am not preaching here, just trying to be helpful. Below are some suggestions based on what I have learned over 8 seasons. Many of the following things were learned the hard way! General Suggestions: 1) Get plenty of practice at varying distances. Range estimation is critical to success unless you are VERY VERY close. 2) Practice often but in moderation. Stop and rest when your arms get tired. Pushing it will foster bad habits that are hard to break. I know someone that started out shooting several hours almost every night which caused physical problems that made him give up archery. 3) Don't start out with too high a draw weight. 50# to 60# range is fine for beginners. (see #2) There are many seasoned veterans that don't go higher. After you have the proper form and archery knowledge, you can go for high-poundage/high-speed setups. Initially you want a smooth shooting and forgiving bow that won't magnify your errors. 4) For getting a first bow it is better to get one from an archery dealer. You can get properly fitted with a bow and try before you buy. As with any other sort of store there are good and bad ones. Ask around and visit several before deciding. After you have a couple seasons of hunting under your belt, (or are getting a replacement item) try Bow Hunters discount warehouse. 5) Practice with broadheads before hunting! Most ranges won't let you shoot broadheads though. The arrow flight can be off several feet at 30 yards even if the braodheads weigh the same as your field tips. This is often an indication that your bow is not properly tuned. 6) Join you state bow hunting organization. Anti-hunters are out to eliminate your new sport. You may also meet some new friends. 7) If you also hunt rabbits or grouse etc, use a blunt or judo point. The impact does a much better stopping job than do broadheads. Grouse can fly quite a distance through thick cover after being center-punched with a broadhead. If you want to shoot at birds in the air, use flu-flu arrows since the will not travel as far and are easier to locate. 8) If you get a bow quiver, get one with a long span between the arrow supporting points. This helps reduce vibration problems. 9) Learn your limitations. Don't shoot at anything outside your effective range for the quick kill zone. (see #1 below for details) 10) Be safe, don't carry a loose arrow around in the woods. It is too easy to cut yourself, a friend walking with you or your string. Specific Recommendations: 1) Get the book "Balanced Bow Hunting" by Dave Holt. (Highly recommended) 2) For sights I reccomend the Fine Line cross hair sight. It durable, compact and fits inside the sight window of most bows. (Less likely to snag on brush or have a cross hair broken in the field.) The crosshairs are not too thick like some other brands. 3) If you use a peep sight, use one with a large hole. Small peeps are qreat on targets but make it extremely difficult to spot critters through. I use the Fine Line "Zero Peep". This prevents peep rotation problems. 4) For releases I prefer the wrist style "Trophy Hunter". It uses ball bearings to hold the string and releases the string with no torque to either side. Only one other release I know of provides a non-torque release. Using other releases pushes the arrow about 3.5 inches to the side @20 yds. I prefer the wrist style because it lets the fingers relax for a smooth squeeze of the trigger. (they are harder to loose too.) 5) For rests I like the Golden Eagle Futura "TM Hunter". It allows the arrow to pass the bow without any of the vanes or feathers hitting the rest. (#'s 4 & 5 allow me to get excellent arrow flight even with an overdraw.) Martin makes a similar rest that appears to be easier to adjust. If you use a finger or torqueing release, you might want to go with a "flipper" style rest. 6) Broadheads tend to be a personal choice. Make sure they are SHARP and that you have your sights adjusted for them. I like WASP series II 3 blade. They are durable, easy to assemble and won't fall apart in your quiver, in flight or in the game. Other ones I've used have done this. 7) Find a good archery dealer and support him. You might need him sometime. Don't try everything in the store and then mail order it. In the Denver area I like American Bowmaster. He has always done good by me and his prices are better than the other dealers in the area. A number of years ago he replaced a bow that had cracked limbs 2 weeks before season with me paying the difference in price. (He didn't have the same draw weight limbs in stock and time was too short to wait for the factory to replace the limbs under warranty.) The replacement bow has been a great bow that hasn't failed me and allowed me to make some great shots. Have a great hunting experience. 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