Path: utzoo!utgpu!news-server.csri.toronto.edu!rpi!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uakari.primate.wisc.edu!doug.cae.wisc.edu!osnome!hunting From: keith@clodii.columbiasc.NCR.COM Newsgroups: rec.hunting Subject: Re: Tree stands Message-ID: <1991May3.064147.2007@doug.cae.wisc.edu> Date: 3 May 91 11:41:46 GMT Lines: 130 Approved: hunting@osnome.che.wisc.edu >From: Tim Rigg >I also made my own tree stand. Since the comercial ones are around >$100, I figured I couldn't go wrong. I have also heard that a major >portion of this cost is insurance fees that manufacturers must pay in >order to portect themselves. Never had heard this before but would believe to be true because I saw one stand maker advertising a 1 million dollar insurance policy I recall. >Anyway, this is the first one I made and it has a few drawbacks: the >main one is it's weight (~15 to 20 pounds). However, it is easy to >carry as a backpack and sets up quickly. >Here are the best drawings that ascii characters and my very limited >artistic skills will allow. I am interested to see what other designs >have been used. Specifically, has anyone made a climbing tree stand? >I figure that I can make two stands - one climbing and one "loc on" >for the price of a single comercial stand. I made the first tree stand I used. It was modeled after a Baker tree stand and since I didn't make a hand climber I had to bear hug the tree. That really sucked because if it slipped, you got your chest and arms all skinned up. I just used a piece of plywood and some flat stock steel to make the lower blades and some angle steel to make the upper blades. I used angle aluminum for the support bars and bolts to hold the upper blade in position. I used small angle brackets to secure the aluminum support bars to the wood. It worked but was a little cumbersome to pack around. I left it on a tree one time too long and it grew legs and walked off so I made another one. About 5 years ago I bought a Warren and Sweat rifleman tree stand for $73 dollars. This stand weighs a mere 12 lbs and is easy to pack around and setup. I would recommend the heavy duty model for anyone over 150 lbs. however. It weighs about 17 lbs I think. I think they start around $99 dollars now. This stand is not made for bowhunting as you sit facing the tree but is safer than others, I feel, made for bowhunting. I have found that if you hunt as much as I do you WILL NOT use a stand that is heavy to carry or hard to set up or makes to much noise to use because of that inconveniece. I probably average 200 hrs in the woods in gun season, so keep that in mind. If you build a two piece "face the tree" stand like mine I suggest you locate somebody who has one you like and "take measurements" and build a close copy. There are probably two dozen stand makers now so there's alot of different types available. Here are some tips you will want to keep in mind while constructing a tree stand: 1. Always use the highest grade components. Use the best grade plywood. Use stainless steel or grade 8 hardware nuts and bolts. Use the best welded chain or aircraft grade cables you can find. It will last a lot longer and you will feel more confident using your stand. 2. When constructing it, take small thin rubber sheets (cut from an old tire inner tube) and place them between every joint possible where metal meets wood. This helps reduce squeaking when you are moving around on the stand. 3. Make the stand as comfortable as possible. The more comfortable you are the longer you will hunt. 4. If your stand has parts such as wingnuts or pins to remove while hooking it on to a tree, then carry spares in a plastic box or bag taped to the stand in case you lose one of these. I keep two extra wing nuts screwed onto two bolts on my stand after spending time looking for a dropped wingnut 10 minutes before daybreak while it was 30 degrees. 5. Always take a 25-30 foot piece of 3/8" nylon rope to raise/lower your weapon that can also be used as a deer drag. 6. Camouflage your stand with paint or tape at least two months prior to using it for hunting. This will give the odors time to air out. 7. Test your tree stand by hooking it on a tree TWO FEET off the ground and jumping up and down on it. See if it will slip or bend/break now rather than when you are 15 feet up in the tree. Now is a good time to get used to your stand and how it feels. Practice standing up and sitting down with a bow if you bowhunt while wearing your safety strap. Try to do it quietly. 8. Keep your stand in good repair. Fix or replace any part you suspect to be weak. This may be your life here! 9. If you are using a loc-on stand, take two med. size nails and a hammer to drive through the chain or just under the cable that secures it to the tree. This will help to keep it from slipping. (Remove the nails when you leave) (See Drawing Below) 10. Don't leave your stand in the woods on public land if you think others may be nearby during daylight hours. Overnite is probably ok but you are taking a chance even on private land. | | | | | | / + | | / + | | / + | | eyebolt / + | | through o LLLLL| | outside ------------------| | corners of 24x19plywood >Anderson for his initial ascii drawings. And to echo his advise: >Always wear a safety strap! They say that falling out of a tree stand >is the greatest danger facing deer hunters Agreed, always wear a strap. >tim Keith --- | Keith M. Boyd (NCR E&M Cola.) | Nothing could be fina' than huntin' and | | 3325 Platt Springs Rd. _______| fishin' in South Carolina! -Me- | | West Cola., S.C. 29170 | Std Disclaimers | keith@clodII.columbiasc.NCR.COM | | ph: 803-791-6419 | From uunet: !uunet!ncrcom!ncrcae!sauron!clodII!keith |