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From: boyd@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (Mickey Boyd)
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Subject: Re: More 45ACP modification questions
Message-ID: <35308@mimsy.umd.edu>
Date: 6 Jun 91 14:59:01 GMT
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Organization: Florida State University Computer Science Department
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Approved: gun-control@cs.umd.edu

In article <35172@mimsy.umd.edu>, martin@mozart.amd.com (Martin Schuessler) writes:
#While we're on the subject of 45 ( or any other semi-auto ) modifications:
#
#I've seen the "Group Grippers" advertised in the Midway catalog. What exactly
#is it and is it worth it ??? Price is around $30.

Well, one product that I have seen which is called a Group Gripper consists
of a new barrel link and recoil spring guide.  The guide has a spring loaded  
thingy which mates with a ledge in the new link, thus pushing the barrel up 
into the lugs (in theory giving a tighter more consistant battery state).  I 
am dubious.  I little work with a stone and some abrasive grease got my 
Colt to lock up quite nicely.  Also, you are adding some more moving parts 
to the gun in an area that get's really dirty when shooting.  For a competition
gun maybe, for a defense gun . . . . nope.

#
#Secondly, they also advertise Wilson's Match triggers for around $30. Do these
#also change the trigger pull or is it simply a replacement trigger ??

Most replacement triggers are made slightly oversized, to allow hand fitting.
Again, if you use a stone or some other abrasive to knock the burrs off the 
trigger/frame tracks, you will probably find that your current trigger will 
do just fine.  In terms of the trigger, this is the only thing that will 
affect the feel (of course, a long trigger with a wide surface "feels" 
different than a short thin one, and there is a difference in feel between 
smooth and serreted trigger faces).  I would try a little (very little) 
smoothing up and some RIG in the frame tracks before I spent my bucks.

#For reference, I have an IAI Hardballer in 45ACP. It has adjustable Millet
#sights, and shoots decent groups. I was looking at either or both of the two
#options above to cut down on group size a little more. I don't want to spend
#several hundred dollars just yet to do major modifications.

Accurizing autos (or revolvers, for that matter) is an art that involves 
many many variables.  It is unlikely that any "drop in" type mod will 
yield appreciably better accuracy (in a gun that is already fairly accurate,
since you are looking for "little" things).  If your gun has never been 
worked on I would take it to a gunsmith and just have him "smooth it up". 
Mine took about 20 minutes to do, and the difference was like night and day.
At that point, you can start thinking about some accurizing stuff, like 
tightening the slide/frame fit, recutting the muzzle crown, installing a 
match barrel, having a new bushing hand fitted to your barrel/slide, etc.
These are all expensive, but some combination of them will squeeze that last
little bit of accuracy out of your gun.  Also, remember that an "accurized"
gun (being inherently "tighter" than a stock gun) will also be more prone to 
jam when dirty.  Also note that IAI stainless has been rated at "a bit soft" 
by some folks, so expensive accurizing might "wear away" quicker than on a 
carbon steel gun (note that most $$$$$ comp guns are built with carbon 
steel parts, then blued or hard-chromed).  I saw an old Hardballer (marked 
AMT) that I could whittle with my pocket knife!!   

-- 
             Mickey R. Boyd          |  "God is a comedian playing to an 
          FSU Computer Science       |      audience too afraid to laugh."
        Technical Support Group      |
      email:  boyd@fsucs.cs.fsu.edu  |                  - Voltaire