Path: utzoo!utgpu!news-server.csri.toronto.edu!bonnie.concordia.ca!uunet!wuarchive!uwm.edu!csd4.csd.uwm.edu!info-high-audio-request From: miker@polari.UUCP (Mike Ranta) Newsgroups: rec.audio.high-end Subject: Re: Need power regulator recommendations Message-ID: <13390@uwm.edu> Date: 25 Jun 91 12:51:39 GMT Sender: news@uwm.edu Lines: 71 Approved: tjk@csd4.csd.uwm.edu Originator: tjk@csd4.csd.uwm.edu In article <13357@uwm.edu> btr!cstokely@decwrl.dec.com writes: >It's time for me to do something about the power to my audio system. >What do you think of voltage regulators or something just short of a >UPS for this system? Got any to recommend? rong I do not recommend voltage regulators. They operate by "stepping" between multiple transformer taps as the input voltage and/or load varies. Each time the device steps to the next tap, there is a small but abrupt jump up or down in the voltage. These jumps alone are a source of noise and sonic problems. The popular Tripp-Lite units sold for audio use operate exactly this way. They also will probably degrade the power output of your Bryston amps which require a great deal of current--more perhaps than even the large Tripp-Lite unit can provide. When you push your amp hard, the regulator is going to be actively stepping between taps somewhat in step with the music to try and respond to the rapidly changing load the amps are presenting. This has to be far worse than the minor variations that may be on your power line. The transformer(s) in your amps already provide isolation from the power line. The large filter capacitors go a long way toward removing noise, minor variations, etc. And in the case of Bryston amps, I believe the gain stages are already electronically regulated. To make a long story short, I cannot believe an external regulator or other magic power conditioner is going to help anything. I do, however, highly suggest a good surge supressor. The stand alone variety for about $50 (versus the ones built into power strips) are the way to go and many have lifetime warranties along with built in monitoring circuits. Some even warrant the equipment connected to them. The good ones will survive many "hits" from your local power company. These devices also remove some RFI from the line which can't hurt. >Should I really just have an electrician come give me >a grounded 3-prong separate circuit for audio? If your outlet is really grounded through the center screw, you should be ok. Even without a ground, most audio systems are happy. The ground is important for the surge supressor to work correctly, however. >When I power on the amps (1 at a time), there is a definate dimming of >the lights, and some time the refrigerator even coughs. (love these old >homes ;-) The lights dimming when your large amps power up is normal. They are drawing hundreds of amps to charge the filter caps in less than a second. Obviously, heavier wiring (and more direct runs to the power panel) help this problem but are usually not practical. >What is the reasonable solution to the power delivery? I'm sure I'll >hear the difference in the speakers. What is the ultimate solution, >assuming money were not much of an object? (short of my own substation, >of course.) I can suggest only that you use a good surge supressor, make sure the outlet is grounded, and if you want to spend more money, put the audio system on it's own 20 amp 12 gauge circuit. Will you hear a difference? Probably not, but you can sleep better knowing the equipment is safer. Will you hear a difference with a regulator? Yes, it will probably sound worse! Finally, I'm sure some of you out there believe power regulation is a wonderful thing, and I'm just waiting for the flames. This is only my opinion represented above, but as a designer of power amplifiers and a devout audiophile, I'm fairly comfortable with my comments. miker@polari.uucp >