Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.1 (Tek) 9/26/83; site tektronix.UUCP Path: utzoo!linus!decvax!tektronix!billr From: billr@tektronix.UUCP (Bill Randle) Newsgroups: net.auto Subject: Re: When to replace a clutch? Message-ID: <1649@tektronix.UUCP> Date: Thu, 15-Dec-83 01:37:54 EST Article-I.D.: tektroni.1649 Posted: Thu Dec 15 01:37:54 1983 Date-Received: Sun, 11-Dec-83 00:50:18 EST References: <1817@ihnss.UUCP> Organization: Tektronix, Beaverton OR Lines: 20 It will become obvious when it is time to replace the clutch. Generally what happens is that the clutch will start slipping - i.e. when you step on the gas the engine revs for a moment before you start moving forward. If you have a hydralicaly operated clutch, your rubber bushings/plungers will usually wear first. The usual symptom for that is no clutch at all - i.e. you push in the clutch but it doesn't disengage. This usually requires rebuilding the slave and/or master clutch cylinders. Over the 135,000 miles I've owned my SAAB, I've had to replace the clutch twice and rebuild the hydralics four times (usually just the slave cylinder). An interesting experience I had once was driving though down- town Vancouver, BC with no clutch. It can be done - just turn off the engine, put the car in first gear and start the engine. Downshifting can be tricky, but it is doable. -Bill Randle tektronix!billr