Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: notesfiles - hp internal release 1.2; site hp-pcd.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!harpo!seismo!hao!hplabs!hp-pcd!ken From: ken@hp-pcd.UUCP Newsgroups: net.garden Subject: Re: fertilizer Message-ID: <11100002@hp-pcd.UUCP> Date: Wed, 23-May-84 02:34:00 EDT Article-I.D.: hp-pcd.11100002 Posted: Wed May 23 02:34:00 1984 Date-Received: Mon, 21-May-84 06:16:59 EDT References: <318@nbires.UUCP> Organization: Hewlett-Packard Portable Computer Division - Corvallis, OR Lines: 35 Nf-ID: #R:nbires:-31800:hpcvlo:11100002:000:1405 Nf-From: hpcvlo!ken May 9 22:34:00 1984 Every gardener should listen to his neighbor politely, with an open mind, and then do what you think is right in your heart. Every gardener digs, sows, and weeds to the beat of his own drummer. I would classify your neighbor's remark about manure as advice to ignore. Manure is coveted by organic gardeners. I have never seen a person appply too much manure to the soil. However, (and here lies the truth in your neighbors remarks) it is best to compost manure, before applying it to the soil. Even at that I have seen people apply 6 inch thick layers of manure on their gardens in spring. Work it all into the soil, and achieve bountiful crops. Realize that the nitrogen content of manure varies greatly, depending on the type of manure used. Horse, hen, sheep, and rabbit are 'hot' manures, high in nitrogen. Cow and hog manures are relatively low in nitrogen content. You especially want manure, if the land as you say, is great for growing rocks. You need to add alot of organic material to the soil to lighten it up. About organic fertilizer: Try any/all/some of the following: Rock Phosphate (Ph basic Dolomitic Lime (Ph basic Kelp Bone Meal ( 3% nitrogen, 25% phosphoric acid Cottonseed Meal (Ph acid, 7% nitrogen, 3% potash Granite dust (5% potash Lawn clippings (nitrogen rich Leaves (often acidic Wood Ashes (alkaline, 7% potash Straw Manure -Ken Bronstein hp-pcd!ken