Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.1 6/24/83; site decwrl.UUCP Path: utzoo!linus!philabs!cmcl2!seismo!hao!hplabs!sdcrdcf!sdcsvax!dcdwest!ittvax!decvax!decwrl!dec-rhea!dec-mrvax!ddb From: ddb@dec-mrvax.UUCP Newsgroups: net.rec.photo Subject: Exposure meters Message-ID: <1963@decwrl.UUCP> Date: Sun, 24-Jun-84 13:38:07 EDT Article-I.D.: decwrl.1963 Posted: Sun Jun 24 13:38:07 1984 Date-Received: Wed, 27-Jun-84 02:47:26 EDT Organization: DEC Engineering Network Lines: 16 I currently have and use a Soligor 1-degree spot meter. I paid about $150 for it (this is not the fancy digital one). For zone system work, a spot meter is invaluable. You can sometimes, terrain and subject permitting, do as well taking a regular meter up close to the subject, but it always takes longer, and in some situations it can't be done. I've used the spot meter both in the studio and outdoors. I like it a lot. If you're using a 35mm camera with built-in meter, a spot meter is definitely the kind of separate meter to carry, since you can use the built-in for average readings when desired. I've also done some work with incident light meters, both the sliding dome on my Gossen Luna-pro F, and a friend's Sekonic studio meter. In general, the zone system approach is much better, in my opinion; however, an incident reading can be useful when you're in a hurry.