Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 (Tek) 9/28/84 based on 9/17/84; site mako.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!mhuxr!ihnp4!cbosgd!cbdkc1!desoto!packard!edsel!bentley!hoxna!houxm!whuxlm!akgua!sdcsvax!sdcrdcf!hplabs!tektronix!orca!mako!seifert From: seifert@mako.UUCP (Snoopy) Newsgroups: net.auto Subject: Re: Cars in Very Cold Weather Message-ID: <540@mako.UUCP> Date: Fri, 25-Jan-85 13:58:51 EST Article-I.D.: mako.540 Posted: Fri Jan 25 13:58:51 1985 Date-Received: Mon, 28-Jan-85 07:41:20 EST References: <1604@pur-phy.UUCP> Reply-To: seifert@mako.UUCP (Snoopy) Distribution: net Organization: The Daisy Hill Puppy Farm Lines: 56 Summary: couple points about jumping cars. (No, not KITT or the General Lee! :-) ) long jumper cables are quite handy. Mine are 16', and longer would be nicer. I think I saw some that were 20' once. That would be about optimum. Heavy gauge wire is a good idea, especially for long wires. Four (4) gauge works well. (buy them when copper prices are down!) Cables that will bend at 30 below are also handy. *Before* you need to jump your car, or jump someone's car off of your's, make sure you know how to get to the battery terminals. This is pretty simple on most cars, but sort of a pain on others, especially if the designers were afraid of electricity, and tried to seal the battery in plastic. Next point: see what there is to attach the jumpers to. If your battery cables have plastic/nylon type clamps, find out if the bolts are hot. They may not be. Also, make sure you don't overtighten this type of clamp, or you'll crack the plastic, and at 30 below it will shatter in a zillion tini pieces. (ask me how I know.) Just good and snug. If you have a late-model car with computer that controls everything, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS, you may need to disconnect some things to prevent blowing up a multi-hundred dollar computer brick. And of course you all already know to attach the last wire away from the battery, to keep sparks away from it. -------- other hints: use the thinnest oil you can find. even 5W30 is super thick at those temps. I haven't tried the synthetics, they're supposed to be better. When I was in chit-town, I wished they made a -30W50 oil for winter. oh well. The cans of starting fluid are quite useful. An engine in good shape (good compression, recent tuneup, good battery) will normally start even at these temps. Do not race the engine until it warms up. The oil isn't too good at it's job when it's almost solid. If you can get electricity to the car, engine heaters, trickle chargers, etc help. Having the coolant warm (ok, less cold) lets the heater/defrosters work sooner too. Attached garages help a lot. _____ |___| the Bavarian Beagle _|___|_ Snoopy \_____/ tektronix!mako!seifert \___/