Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/18/84; site watdaisy.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!watdaisy!gvcormack From: gvcormack@watdaisy.UUCP (Gordon V. Cormack) Newsgroups: net.auto Subject: Re: Baby it's cold outside Message-ID: <6880@watdaisy.UUCP> Date: Fri, 25-Jan-85 09:18:52 EST Article-I.D.: watdaisy.6880 Posted: Fri Jan 25 09:18:52 1985 Date-Received: Sat, 26-Jan-85 04:49:39 EST References: <159@ur-cvsvax.UUCP> <1880@sdcc6.UUCP> Distribution: net Organization: U of Waterloo, Ontario Lines: 25 > batteries - but it does!) The current from booster cables was going > through the smallest resistance, i.e. through my battery and not the > starter. I think it should be kept in mind when jump-starting a car, > but I haven't seen this mentioned in any troubleshooting manual. > > Erek Behr, UCSD > (sdcc6!ix654) This is impossible. The resistance of the starter is less than 0.1 ohms. If there were really an internal short of less than 0.1 ohms inside the battery, more than 100 amps (i.e. 1200 watts) would be produced. Connecting the booster cables to such a battery would cause sparking resembling an arc welder. What is more likely is that originally the booster cables were not connected well, and after removing the original battery a better connection was made (what did you have in its place?). It has already been mentioned on this net, but I will re-iterate the fact that you need REALLY good cables and connectors to transfer enough current to start a cold car. With most cables, the best you can do is help the existing battery a bit. Waiting with the cables connected before trying charges the existing battery slightly and also warms it from the charging current. Gordon V. Cormack gvcormack@watdaisy.uucp gvcormack%watdaisy@waterloo.csnet