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From: briand@tekig1.UUCP (Brian Diehm)
Newsgroups: net.rec.wood
Subject: Re: glue and stain
Message-ID: <1828@tekig1.UUCP>
Date: Mon, 28-Jan-85 13:33:47 EST
Article-I.D.: tekig1.1828
Posted: Mon Jan 28 13:33:47 1985
Date-Received: Wed, 30-Jan-85 05:31:43 EST
References: <112@rruxu.UUCP> <771@clyde.UUCP>
Organization: Tektronix, Beaverton OR
Lines: 35

> By the way, the thick, yellow carpenters glue tends to wash off "close
> grain" woods like maple very well with warm water if you get to it
> quickly.  Mahogany and other "deep grain" woods require a lot of water to
> flush the glue out.  Better not to get it on the wood in the first
> place.
>
> - - - 
> 
> Bottom line: don't let the glue get on, wash off what does, sand off any
> residue when dry.  You may still want to seal just the end grain for
> more uniform color.
> 
> 	Steve Falco

I agree - assemble first then stain, but there are some other tips about
managing the glue problem.  I've never tried Steve's masking tape idea - it
seems like it would work, but from my reading and my personal experience, I've
found it is inadvisable to ever wash off glue.

Using water will thin the glue, which then soaks better into the wood - just
where you don't want it around the joint.  Instead, let the glue bead up (but
try to minimize the excess), and when it "skins over" pretty well (~15 mins)
THEN scrape the beads off with a cabinet scraper.  Without the pressure of a
clamped joint, the glue doesn't penetrate the wood beyond 1/64" (if that), and
the scraping of the skinned glue removes ALL TRACE of the excess!

Anyway, a golden rule according to many sources, and according to my personal
experience, is NEVER WASH OFF GLUE.  Period.

This isn't to say Steve's methods won't or don't work - woodworking results are
a personal matter of work methods.

-Brian Diehm
Tektronix, Inc. (who, because they do no woodworking, probably doesn't CARE
                 about my disclaiming their representation. . .)