Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.1 6/24/83; site abnji.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!mhuxr!mhuxt!mhuxv!abnji!jeff From: jeff@abnji.UUCP (jeff) Newsgroups: net.micro Subject: Uninterruptible power supplies Message-ID: <362@abnji.UUCP> Date: Mon, 25-Feb-85 18:29:06 EST Article-I.D.: abnji.362 Posted: Mon Feb 25 18:29:06 1985 Date-Received: Wed, 27-Feb-85 08:32:43 EST Lines: 52 [I don't believe in bug-killers, but I'll bow to peer pressure] Let me begin my dissertation on Uninterruptible Power Supplies with a quote from Tom Lehrer: "Life is like a sewer. What you get out of it depends on what you put into it" The same is true of UPSs. Do you want +5 volts DC only, +/-5, +/-12, or 120VAC? I have some switching power supplies that take ~16 VAC or ~20 VDC. (To operate on 120 VAC, they use a step-down transformer and a full wave rectifier). I figure that I can put a battery between the rectifier and the power supply. When AC is on, the battery is charging. If the AC drops or cuts out, power is drawn from the battery. Rather than having the battery constantly charging (which I believe is bad for some batteries whereas some may not have any adverse effects) there could be a charging circuit that would charge the battery only when needed, cut out the battery when charged but the AC power is okay and connect the battery when the AC drops (just like the emergency lights). The only trick is to connect the battery fast enough for the power supply not to drop its output. If you want 120VAC(**), then how about this: use the aforementioned "emergency light" to provide uninterrupted 12 VDC to a power converter (that converts 12VDC to 120VAC - popular with campers to run appliances from a car battery) and run everything from the converter. Under normal circumstances, it is wasteful to convert 120VAC to 12VDC to 120VAC again, but the noise and spikes shouldn't get through (it'll act as a filter) and the moment the AC goes away, the battery will continue powering the already operating converter (no time needed to "warm up", less likelihood of transients). Of course, you could just BUY ONE (there are many manufacturers, some advertise in Byte) but that's no fun :-) (but it will come with a guarantee/warranty that it will work first time, but that's what you're paying for!) (**) at approximately 60 Hz, although most power supplies are not very frequency sensitive. The output may not be a pure sine-wave, thus the RMS voltage and total power may be greater than a sine wave. Nice power supplies should forgive this. Some food for thought from Jeff 'soft and furry' Skot at ATTIS in Somerset New Joisey { ihnp4 | mcnc | cbosgb } abnji ! jeff