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From: ron@wjvax.UUCP (Ron Christian)
Newsgroups: net.rec.photo
Subject: Re: In-Camera meters  (Incident Vs. Reflective)
Message-ID: <364@wjvax.UUCP>
Date: Fri, 22-Feb-85 13:34:32 EST
Article-I.D.: wjvax.364
Posted: Fri Feb 22 13:34:32 1985
Date-Received: Fri, 22-Feb-85 15:52:39 EST
References: <2720002@acf4.UUCP>
Organization: Watkins Johnson, San Jose, Calif.
Lines: 46

I disagree with the statement that incident light measurement
gives a more accurate exposure.  This does not take in account
the reflectivity of the subject.  If your model's face is in
shadow, it will be consistantly underexposed if you rely only
on measurement of incident light.  The best way, in my opinion,
(Get that disclamer in there! :-)) to figure exposure is to meter
off the surface you want to be exposed correctly.  In the case
of portrature, this usually means metering on the light reflected
from the face.  Even skin tone (race, degree of tanning) can affect
exposure.

It seems to me that incident light measurement has the same problems
you'd have in automatic mode.  That is, it's the best possible way to
get an average exposure.  I personally am usually not happy with average
exposures.

Now, on camera metering accuracy:  When I first got my hand held
meter, I was shocked to find that it disagreed with my camera on
the order of 2 stops or so.  But the key here is to make sure you're
metering off what you think you're metering off of.  My hand held
meter takes a very average exposure, where the Nikon FE is center
weighted.  I found that if I got close enough (without casting a
shadow) to my subject with the hand held, it gave the same reading
as the camera within 1/2 a stop.  I suspect that a spot meter would
agree with my camera at the shooting distance.

I also do a lot of shooting in manual mode, but for a one time shot
it's not necessary.  Most of the good cameras have what's called
a 'memory lock', which is a quick-and-dirty way to zero in on a
particular surface.  You get close to the correct surface, (see
first paragraph) press the memory lock, and hold it in as you back
off to the correct distance and take your shot.  I've had good luck
with this, although if I'm taking more than one picture in the same
setting I switch to manual.  The Nikon FA, FE and F3 have memory locks.
I don't know about the FM and FG.

I shoot about 20 rolls a month, about 1/4 on aperture priority, the
rest on manual.  I use the FE meter exclusively, except when I'm using
my old Nikkor Non-AI lense in bright light.  I've had good exposures
and bad exposures.  It depends on how much thought you put into the
shot.  I don't think there is any one technique for always getting
the 'right' exposure.
-- 

	Ron Christian  (Watkins-Johnson Co.  San Jose, Calif.)
	{pesnta,twg,ios,qubix,turtlevax,tymix}!wjvax!ron