Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version nyu B notes v1.5 12/10/84; site acf4.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!bonnie!akgua!mcnc!decvax!genrad!panda!talcott!harvard!seismo!cmcl2!acf4!hkr4627 From: hkr4627@acf4.UUCP (Hedley K. J. Rainnie) Newsgroups: net.rec.photo Subject: Re: In-Camera meters (Incident Vs. Reflective) Message-ID: <2720004@acf4.UUCP> Date: Sat, 23-Feb-85 14:12:00 EST Article-I.D.: acf4.2720004 Posted: Sat Feb 23 14:12:00 1985 Date-Received: Wed, 27-Feb-85 05:58:50 EST References: <364@wjvax.UUCP> Organization: New York University Lines: 37 Assuming that you are using a film with any sort of exposure latitude, you should NOT adjust exposure due to the model's complexion. If she has dark skin, you do not want to increase exposure until her skin becomes lighter. If you are taking pictures of a white wall, you do not want to decrease exposure until it looks the same as a black wall. An in camera meter will attempt to do this. Reflected light is a component of at least two variables. Light intensity and reflectivity of the subject. The in camera meter must guess at the values of the components. It does so by assuming that every object it photographs has precisely the reflectivity of an 18% grey card. If the subject has this same reflectivity, fine. Otherwise, you will have to manually compensate... "Hmm does that green dress look a half stop or a full stop brighter than 18% grey?" As for the model being in shadow, the incident meter should be placed in the same shadow as her face, thus yeilding accurate exposure. Most incident meters do average between shadow and highlight by way of a plastic bubble over the sensor. However, replacing the bubble with a disk and pointing it alterately towards the lightsource and away will yeild accurate highlight and shadow readings. Though I am an amateur photographer, all of the professionals I have known rely heavily on the incident light meter--so heavily that most admit that they are completely helpless without it. Now, I am not going to say for a moment you can get perfectly exposed shots using any method unless we are being purely technical. There may be times when you want to under or overexpose a shot deliberately. I happen to feel that an incident light meter will give you a "technically correct" exposure which you may then alter to suit your needs. Incidentally: The FM does not need an exposure lock since it is a completely manual camera. Rei Shinozuka ihnp4!cmcl2!acf4!hkr4627