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From: aww@cybvax0.UUCP (Arch Williams)
Newsgroups: net.audio
Subject: Re: Cassettes / Audio Amatuer
Message-ID: <451@cybvax0.UUCP>
Date: Fri, 5-Apr-85 16:50:33 EST
Article-I.D.: cybvax0.451
Posted: Fri Apr  5 16:50:33 1985
Date-Received: Sun, 7-Apr-85 10:30:33 EST
References: <1477@decwrl.UUCP>
Organization: Cybermation, Inc., Cambridge, MA
Lines: 62

> Subjects:	Cassette durability query
> 		Audio Amateur query
> 
>  I have been experiencing regular failures of my older/more-frequently-
> listened-to tapes. There are two failure modes. One is that over time, the 
> tape does not wind uniformly (w.r.t. position) on the internal spools.
> 
> The other failure mode is not as gradual. The tape does a 90 deg barrel roll
> inserting its edge into the seam of the case. 
> 
> 	1. Would anyone care to venture an EDUCATED guess as to what is
> 	   happening?


	I'm not familiar with that model BIC but my Hitachi D-850 had the exact
same symptoms that you describe above. If you're not concerned about warranty
violation, remove the cover from the deck and check the rewind spindle (the
hub on the left with ridges that rewinds the tape (yeah, I know, there's
probably a special word for it)).  There is usually a small braking mechanism
that rubs against the back of the spindle during play and properly tensions
the tape as it goes through the first capstan.  The brake itself is usually
a small, thin piece of metal with a patch of felt attached to it.  In my case
the felt had fallen off.  It's incredible how much damage a 10 cent part can
inflict upon a tape collection.

	For a quick check, take the door off the deck (these usually slide off
for access to the heads), play a tape, and wait for the bugger to try and eat
it.  When the sound becomes garbled, usually the first warning, put your
finger on the front of the spindle and press lightly.  This will cause enough
friction to get the tape tensioned again.  If the tape begins to play well
again then that is the problem.

	I still don't know why the new tapes worked fine (although, in the end
they too were eaten halfway through the first recording) and for a while 
cleaning the capstans would help.  So far the deck hasn't curled a tape for
six months so the fix seems to have worked.


> 	4. Is there a tape made that has a reputation for longevity AND
> 	   acoustic quality? (What's Maxell's rep?)


	I have almost always used Maxell UD XL II/IIS tapes (except when the
deck first aquired it's appetite and I tried feeding it different brands) and
have found them to be of good quality and durability.  I do not, however, use
the same recorded tape for the car and the home stereo.  The car tapes usually
suffer from heat/moisture exposure and sound rather bad when played on the
home system.  It's worth making two copies.


> 	5. My principal suspicion is tape case warpage. Does this vary
> 	   with case construction (glued vs. screwed vs. both)? If so,
> 	   which has the best chances of outliving the others?


	I heard a rumor (i.e. take it for what it's worth) that the companies
that use screws to join the shells together do so for product appeal (looks
sturdy) and not for any practical reasons.  

Hope this info helps.

Arch Williams