Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/18/84; site brl-tgr.ARPA Path: utzoo!linus!decvax!genrad!panda!talcott!harvard!seismo!brl-tgr!ron From: ron@brl-tgr.ARPA (Ron Natalie ) Newsgroups: net.rec.photo Subject: Re: Darkroom neophyte knows nothing Message-ID: <9667@brl-tgr.ARPA> Date: Mon, 1-Apr-85 15:49:08 EST Article-I.D.: brl-tgr.9667 Posted: Mon Apr 1 15:49:08 1985 Date-Received: Sun, 7-Apr-85 10:37:08 EST References: <2720013@acf4.UUCP> Organization: Ballistic Research Lab Lines: 37 > I am interested in learning how to do my own darkroom work. Can anyone > recommend a good source of literature to begin this long (and probably very > expensive undertaking?). > > (I realize that it's probably psycho to even THINK about doing your own > development to "save money"). > I don't think your psycho. I got into photography through the back door. My first equipment was a home darkroom kit. I got an instamatic just so I'd have some pictures to develop. My favorite reference is some book with a name like the "Photographers Handbook". I'll dig up the authors name later. I have a very fond image of that book, blue and smelling of fixer. If you want to do B&W work, doing your own darkroom work is the only way to go. One, it is easy and relatively inexpensive. Two, no lab around here takes black and white seriously. You can set your self up with a real nice black and white setup for under $300. Color used to be real messy and long. Without fancy equipment you'd spned hours developing test swatches and fiddling filters. Things have been neatened up a bit, both with the processes and the advent of resin coated paper. I would recommend doing type R work. This is print from slide work without an intervening negative. First, I shoot some film. Only a subset do I want to print. I take my slides (which I still send to Kodak for convenience reason) and load them into a tray and view them (oh, If I could only get a stackloader). Then decide which ones I want to print. With the slides, you spend a lot less time fiddling with the color correction. The processes for this have really improved. I've used Unicolor and some older one (I've been out of it for a while) and there are all kinds of newer ones in the last few years such as Cibachrome. You can even do it in the dark, it's only four chemicals and about 15 minutes, although a drum probably would be handy. Kodak even marketed a slide print developer about a year ago, but I've never investigated it. -Ron