Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP
Posting-Version: version B 2.10.1 6/24/83; site utcs.UUCP
Path: utzoo!utcs!tj
From: tj@utcs.UUCP (tj)
Newsgroups: net.rec.ski
Subject: Re: apology for multiples
Message-ID: <561@utcs.UUCP>
Date: Mon, 1-Apr-85 08:45:08 EST
Article-I.D.: utcs.561
Posted: Mon Apr  1 08:45:08 1985
Date-Received: Mon, 1-Apr-85 09:41:09 EST
References: <5258@tektronix.UUCP>
Reply-To: tj@utcs.UUCP (tj)
Organization: University of Toronto - General Purpose UNIX
Lines: 23
Summary: 


I think raising the binding off the ski an inch is the best approach. It then
means that you have made no mods to your boots and therefore you can still
a) deal with any ski shop for normal boot repairs
b) sell them when its time to upgrade. (the market is small for people
   with an inch difference in leg length!)

If you use a solid shim the length of the toepiece to heel piece you will
stiffen the ski somewhat. It depends on the type of material you use. On
the other hand if you use just a peice under the toepiece or under the heel
piece there are a couple of things. One is positive... snow won't get jammed
under your boot as you put them on! The other effect, negative, is
that as the ski flexes, the binding lives on a different radius of curvature
than the radius the ski is curving. As the ski flexes the binding has to move
to keep tension on the boot. Heel pieces are made to move, but you will
definitely be moving it more than normal. You may get more premature
releases because of this problem.

The modify the boot approach is the best from an engineering standpoint when
you look at boot ski interaction if you can get the difference in height
without changing the soles outside, but I think you will probably comprimise
the fit, comfort, and normal ranges of motion of the boot. 
tj