Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/18/84; site brand.UUCP Path: utzoo!linus!decvax!ittvax!dcdwest!sdcsvax!sdcrdcf!uscvax!oberon!brand!barad From: barad@brand.UUCP (Herb Barad) Newsgroups: net.rec.photo Subject: Re: darkroom paper Message-ID: <117@brand.UUCP> Date: Mon, 29-Apr-85 22:48:38 EDT Article-I.D.: brand.117 Posted: Mon Apr 29 22:48:38 1985 Date-Received: Tue, 7-May-85 08:37:18 EDT References: <2720024@acf4.UUCP> <661@asgb.UUCP> <77@harvard.ARPA> Organization: U. of So. Calif., Los Angeles Lines: 33 > I too use the method of printing first on an RC paper before going with > a fiber paper. Not only is it easier, but it is cheaper as well. > > -- > ---------------- > Marty Sasaki net: sasaki@harvard.{arpa,uucp} I don't understand how you can "learn" to print a negative on RC and then print it on fiber paper. The different papers have different characteristics and will not at all give the same results. As soon as you get the print you want on RC (if that is possible), you will not get the same on fiber paper. Also, why is this method cheaper? Has anybody tried paper from ZONE VI? They not only sell Brilliant, but also Oriental. Oriental, for example, costs $48.87 for a box of 8x10 (100) (only $43.87 in larger quantities). How much will you save when you use up many sheets of RC paper, and then have to make several prints on fiber. I used to print on RC paper (Ilford MGII) and I don't anymore. I have since converted to fiber paper (mostly Oriental Seagull). I have seen much better results with Oriental and it is archival (no RC paper is...). Any responses... Herb Barad [USC - Signal and Image Processing Institute] ...!lbl-csam!trwspf!herb -- Herb Barad [USC - Signal and Image Processing Institute] ...!lbl-csam!trwspf!herb or ...!uscvax!oberon!brand!barad