Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/18/84; site peora.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!mhuxr!mhuxt!houxm!vax135!petsd!peora!jer From: jer@peora.UUCP (J. Eric Roskos) Newsgroups: net.consumers Subject: Re: Deadbolts in metal doors advice needed Message-ID: <934@peora.UUCP> Date: Tue, 14-May-85 13:24:13 EDT Article-I.D.: peora.934 Posted: Tue May 14 13:24:13 1985 Date-Received: Thu, 16-May-85 03:13:15 EDT References: <731@ssc-vax.UUCP> <1173@cbosgd.UUCP> Organization: Perkin-Elmer SDC, Orlando, Fl. Lines: 26 mark@cbosgd.UUCP (Mark Horton at AT&T Bell Laboratories, Columbus, Oh) writes: > ... .75" bits cost an arm and a leg and require a 1/2" drill. (If you own a > drill, it's almost certainly a 1/4" or 3/8", too small for a .75" bit.) > Figure at least $50 for a drill that size... You don't really have to buy a new drill, though. You can get 1/2" drill chucks which are on the end of a 3/8" shaft; you put the 1/2" chuck into your drill's chuck, and put the drill into the 1/2" chuck, and use that. I am not sure where these chucks come from; I have had one in my toolbox for many years, but I forgot where I got it. (It was from some place in Atlanta that sells power tools.) Actually the chucks on most drills unscrew off the drill. Some of them provide a hole where you stick a screwdriver or nail in order to prevent the shaft from rotating; others you have to improvise. I'm not sure if 1/2" chucks are available with the same size threads or not, though. But one of these approaches would probably be better than buying a new drill. -- Full-Name: J. Eric Roskos UUCP: ..!{decvax,ucbvax,ihnp4}!vax135!petsd!peora!jer US Mail: MS 795; Perkin-Elmer SDC; 2486 Sand Lake Road, Orlando, FL 32809-7642