Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/18/84; site tymix.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!mhuxr!mhuxt!houxm!vax135!cornell!uw-beaver!tektronix!hplabs!oliveb!tymix!kanner From: kanner@tymix.UUCP (Herb Kanner) Newsgroups: net.rec.photo Subject: Re: darkroom paper Message-ID: <414@tymix.UUCP> Date: Thu, 9-May-85 15:35:50 EDT Article-I.D.: tymix.414 Posted: Thu May 9 15:35:50 1985 Date-Received: Fri, 17-May-85 01:18:22 EDT References: <2720024@acf4.UUCP> <661@asgb.UUCP> <77@harvard.ARPA> <117@brand.UUCP> Reply-To: kanner@tymix.UUCP (Herb Kanner) Organization: Tymnet Inc., Cupertino CA Lines: 42 Summary: In article <117@brand.UUCP> barad@brand.UUCP (Herb Barad) writes: >> I too use the method of printing first on an RC paper before going with >> a fiber paper. Not only is it easier, but it is cheaper as well. >> >> -- >> ---------------- >> Marty Sasaki net: sasaki@harvard.{arpa,uucp} > >I don't understand how you can "learn" to print a negative on RC and then >print it on fiber paper. The different papers have different >characteristics and will not at all give the same results. As soon as you >get the print you want on RC (if that is possible), you will not get the >same on fiber paper. For your consideration: I make a contact proof print of 36 exposures on one sheet of RC glossy. If examined with a magnifying glass, it is good enough for partial evaluation. The proof printer is a Patterson, which has a high-quality glass plate, not a crummy plastic one, and that makes a tremendous difference. The prints are not big enough to judge sharpness, but one can judge things like facial expressions, posture, etc. I then tick mark those in which I am interested. Next, I go into mass production mode and print that subset on RC paper, 8 x 10. I am now using Polyprint; formerly used Polycontrast Rapid. In this mass production exercise, I do pay attention to framing and cropping, so the degree of enlargement varies. Having put into a programmable calculator the formula for exposure ratio as a function of distance from film to easel, I am not in the dark (no pun intended) as to the exposure required when I change magnification. If and when I have a few negs that are worth mounting on a board and hanging on the wall, I go into a session using fiber paper. I like to go to 11 x 14, but that has the disadvantage that you run out of wall space a hell of a lot faster than with 8 x 10. I agree, papers are different, and any effort spent on getting the best possible print on RC for a given neg does not help when I move to fiber. I consider the RC prints just another step in the selection process and a way of getting prints quickly for a sentimental look-see once a year or for giving away. -- Herb Kanner Tymnet, Inc.