Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/18/84; site nicmad.UUCP Path: utzoo!linus!decvax!genrad!mit-eddie!think!harvard!seismo!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!brown From: brown@nicmad.UUCP Newsgroups: net.audio Subject: Re: Audio Transformer (Really TV audio) Message-ID: <185@nicmad.UUCP> Date: Sat, 25-May-85 23:33:45 EDT Article-I.D.: nicmad.185 Posted: Sat May 25 23:33:45 1985 Date-Received: Mon, 27-May-85 07:35:35 EDT References: <1989@topaz.ARPA> <10785@brl-tgr.ARPA> Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corp. Madison WI Lines: 32 > The best thing is to grab the audio signal before it gets into the TV's > own audio stages, and also strip off any garbage like DC offsets or stray > AC power-line noise or leakage. This is usually done by getting the signal > at the volume-control pot, and checking it with a DC-coupled 'scope. > > Some fancy TV's make it hard to do this -- I have a Zenith System III set > (a real dog!) where the volume pot has only DC on it -- it just varies > a control voltage and the real audio signal is buried down inside one > of their overpriced modules! But if you can get clean line-level audio > at your TV's volume pot, you can tap it off to a line-level-output jack > which you can install anywhere convenient. (Suggestion: don't put it on > the back panel were you'll have to disconnect it to take off the rear for > servicing!) WARNING: Doing the above may be hazardous to your health! Some TV sets don't use any kind of isolation from the AC line, ie, one side of the AC line gets connected to the TV chassis/ground circuit. The headphone output is done after a audio transformer. If the ground of a Hi-Fi system is attached to the chassis of the TV, it is hard to say which piece will 'blow-up', if not both. CAUTION IS ADVISED!!!!!!!! -- |------------| | |-------| o| JVC HRD725U Mr. Video | | | o| |--------------| | | | | | |----| o o o | | |-------| O| |--------------| |------------| VHS Hi-Fi (the only way to go) ({!seismo,!ihnp4}!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!brown)