Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/17/84; site hao.UUCP Path: utzoo!linus!philabs!cmcl2!seismo!hao!hull From: hull@hao.UUCP (Howard Hull) Newsgroups: net.micro Subject: Re: Re: How to fab One-Of-A-Kind systems? Message-ID: <1577@hao.UUCP> Date: Mon, 3-Jun-85 20:07:02 EDT Article-I.D.: hao.1577 Posted: Mon Jun 3 20:07:02 1985 Date-Received: Tue, 4-Jun-85 08:17:31 EDT References: <202@ganehd.UUCP> <1690@sunybcs.UUCP> Distribution: net Organization: High Altitude Obs./NCAR, Boulder CO Lines: 50 In the cited article by Ken Smith, almost all of the technicalities with respect to wire wrap have been expressed better than I could say them. I would like to add, though, that use of a 110v powered hand wire-wrap gun takes a little practice. I have found that there are two major disasters that can happen: 1. If you press the gun too firmly down around the base of the post, the wire will not feed properly, and (if you are lucky) the wire will be broken after only one and a half turns. Given that (you were unlucky) the wire was nicked, and that you didn't notice it, it will fail later at it's own convenience, not yours. Be prepared to do the wrap over, but keep in mind that the wire wrap system depends on the posts remaining *square*, and that each attempt puts little dents in the post that may compromise subsequent attempts. Above all, WORK CAREFULLY. You may want to warm up on a "junk" board before you start for real. For the bottom wrap, press the gun all the way to the bottom of the post, and then lift it about a millimeter off the board. Apply just enough upward force to support the weight of the gun minus ~ .00001 oz at that height while the trigger is pulled, allowing the gun to rise slightly as the wrap proceeds (a major fraction of a second). Whatever ya do, don't flinch. Inspect the wrap when you are done to see that all the wire went on the post, and that the wrap is even. This is a necessary, but not sufficient condition, so see number 2., below. 2. If you suffered from linear withdrawal symptoms while doing the wrap, and you thus lifted the gun slightly while wrapping, you will have an even wrap, but nonetheless a *stretched* wrap. Since a stretched wrap can be compressed (and thus result in a slightly shorter wrap with an *expanded radius*) by pushing down on the gun, if you want to have any hope of spotting a stretched wrap you might have made, DO NOT press down on the gun as you are done with a wrap! The result of pressing down is a floating wrap (we call them "Weber Junctions" in honor of a certain technician that did several hundred of them for us in a bit-slice micro we put together some time ago). They are *very hard to detect* by physical inspection, and may even pass electrical inspection until the wire oxidizes. After that, kiss your sanity goodbye. 3. Always strip wire_wrap wire with a "gauged" stripping tool. Just pulling the wire from the reel until it breaks, or use of a pair of long-nosed pliers may stretch the wire, resulting in a tapered gauge along the wrapped length. I don't know that this causes so much trouble in the actual finished wrap as it does in the handling of the wire by the tool while the wrap is being completed. It does, however, contribute to failures as outlined in (1.) above. Regards, Howard Hull [If yet unproven concepts are outlawed in the range of discussion... ...Then only the deranged will discuss yet unproven concepts] {ucbvax!hplabs | allegra!nbires | harpo!seismo } !hao!hull