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Path: utzoo!utcs!lsuc!pesnta!hplabs!hp-pcd!craig
From: craig@hp-pcd.UUCP (craig)
Newsgroups: net.bicycle
Subject: Re: How To Make Your Bicycle Faster
Message-ID: <7700009@hpcvlo.UUCP>
Date: Mon, 10-Jun-85 14:21:00 EDT
Article-I.D.: hpcvlo.7700009
Posted: Mon Jun 10 14:21:00 1985
Date-Received: Sat, 15-Jun-85 08:52:15 EDT
References: <1644@reed.UUCP>
Organization: Hewlett-Packard - Corvallis, OR
Lines: 50
Nf-ID: #R:reed:-164400:hpcvlo:7700009:000:3212
Nf-From: hpcvlo!craig    Jun 11 10:21:00 1985

A few comments on "How to make your bicycle faster".  Most of the information
I agree with (I like to see other peoples experiences with what works for
them and why).
Wheels and hubs:  I build all my wheels with DT stainless double butted
spokes.  8+ pairs have yet to break a spoke.  I use Mavic "heat treated"
rims mostly - they are heavy but very durable and are very easy to build
with.  I lighten up the wheel by using alloy nipples (very light and
seem to be strong - just be careful with the spoke wrench and use Neverseez
on the spoke threads) and "lite" gauge spokes.  "Heat treated" rims
make 28 and 32 spoke wheels much more practical than nonhardened rims.
The "soft" rims took about twice as long to true and dented much quicker.
For my high zoot wheels I use Mavic 28 hole CX-18 rims ($$$ but 300 gm)
Campy hubs "lite" spokes front, "heavy" rear.  I use the front all the time
and love it - I haven't retrued it since I built it (3+ months) because
there is no reason to.  I'm convinced that 32 hole "heat treated" wheels
all I'll ever need (I guess I should say I'm ~150lb catagory II racer -
I don't tour but I have put in a few 200mi days).
Matrix Iso rims seems strong but aren't all that light - 300gm without
the steel washers needed to keep the nipples from pulling through the rim.
Those washers also make the wheel a bit of a pain to build and tend to 
chew up alloy nipples.  I got them on my track bike and their' working
very well.
I like Campy hubs over Phil (I have about equal numbers of each) because
the Phils get sloppy after a while and you can't adjust out the slop
(because the sealed bearing are replace only).  It does take a long time for
the slop to get anoying (unless you have them on a mountain bike - you'll
think your frame is broken after you pack the hubs with water and mud a few
times).  Both hubs are very well built and expensive.  I use Phils because
I'm lazy and don't have to repack them after long rides in the rain.

Frames: here I have a big bias:  light, tight and stiff.  Nobody seems
to build the bike I want so I build my own.  Seat angle 74, head angle 75,
wheel base about 37.5in and bottom bracket height close to 11.25in.  A rolling
torture rack you say?  not according to me.  It goes where I point it, when
I pedel it moves, I can drink at 45+ mph, etc and it even goes in a straight
line.  Not a cush ride but then I ride to cover distance fast.  The stiff
frame feels more "secure" in corners where a "frame with give" tends to 
let the rear wheel do a little steering which leads to wander in corners.
(This is personal opinion).

The "how to ride fast" article mentioned that rear wheel spoke breakage
was due stiff rear triangles.  I would have to disagree.  First my bike
does not have a problem and is rather stiff.  Second, if the wheel hits
a bump, the shock is transmitted through the seat stays which don't
give (because of trianglation).  They difference between a stiff and lazy
rear triangle is latteral loads.  I think spoke breakage is due more
to poorly built wheels and body weight on the saddle when the bump is hit.
Standing up allows the bike to bounce and keeps the shock from being
absorbed by the wheel.
				Craig Durland