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From: haynes@decwrl.UUCP (Charles Haynes)
Newsgroups: net.rec
Subject: Climbing in Yosemite
Message-ID: <289@decwrl.UUCP>
Date: Tue, 3-Sep-85 20:38:01 EDT
Article-I.D.: decwrl.289
Posted: Tue Sep  3 20:38:01 1985
Date-Received: Thu, 5-Sep-85 00:45:22 EDT
References: <1084@gatech.CSNET>
Organization: Digital Equipment Corp., Palo Alto, CA
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First let me introduce myself. I'm a programmer at DEC's Western Software
Lab.  I lead 5.9 friction, 5.7 most other things. I climb mostly in
Yosemite, some at Pinnacles National Monument, and I've been to the
Shawangunks. I've never done any big wall climbing, but I have done a few
grade III's in the Valley.

Enough qualifications, I'd like to second Eugene's comments about first
time climbing in Yosemite. If you've never been there before, you should
try a few shorter climbs before embarking on a Grade IV or V adventure
[read fiasco]. Washington Column Direct is a good, fun climb. Snake Dike
is a bit exciting, but fun. Fairview Dome in Tuolumne has some nice climbs
on it too, but please, spend at least one day getting used to the rock
before you commit to a long climb.

A note about Royal Arches. "The log is gone." Yes, it's sad but true, the
rotten log finally fell. As far as anyone knows, it died peacefully in the
night, and no climbers were on it. I was in the valley that day, and two
of us had gone to the Glacier Point apron, two went to do Arches. They were
the first to the log that day, and discovered that it was gone. So Arches is now
5.9 instead of 5.6 A1. For those unfamiliar with the climb, Royal Arches
in Yosemite is a Grade III who's most famous pitch is at a 30 foot wide
crevice. The face of the crevice is 5.9, but fortunately there was a large
dead tree that fell just across the top of it. You got to walk, crawl, or
scoot across this log, above a drop of some hundreds of feet. To give you
some idea of the quality of the log, the first ascent party dubbed it "The
Rotten Log". The first ascent was in October 1936.

I disagree strongly about Eugene's comments about first timers. There are
a LOT of fairly easy, fun, climbs in Yosemite that are perfect for
beginners. Go with someone who knows the area, or sign up with Yosemite
mountaineering for some classes. For climbers with some experience, and
modest goals, I would recommend The Grack (Center) [5.6/5.7] otherwise
known as The Crack in the Grack. A fun climb, easy to protect, and you see
your climber the whole way. Very popular though. Aunt Fanny's Pantry [5.3]
and Uncle Fanny [5.6] in Church Bowl are easy short climbs. We have a
group that takes novices once or twice a season. Last time we took a mob
over to the Glacier Point apron and played around on the Cow for a while.

The only other advice I would give you is to get a guide book if you don't
already have one. I like "Yosemite Climbs" by George Meyers, it's fairly
standard. I have Steve Roper's "Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley" but
it's getting a little dated, and doesn't include many of the recent climbs.

On another subject, I've actually seen people climbing a 5.12, Crimson
Cringe [5.12a] is a vertical, thin, hand crack. No place for your feet,
but not overhanging. Looked very tough. There is a 5.13 friction/face
climb on the Glacier Point Apron, called Scimitar. It's a top rope
problem, and I've never seen anyone do it. I can't even get off the ground
on it.

Sorry about this long rambling note, I like to talk about climbing, almost
as much [maybe more] than climbing itself. My friends and I hope to get to
the Oasis sometime this summer, via either Goodrich Pinnacle or Point
Beyond -> Lucifers -> Oasis. We might also try Coonyard to Oasis if we're
feeling frisky. Next year, Steck-Salathe Route, Sentinel Rock!

	Post more about Rock Climbing,
	I like to read stories too!
	
	-- Charles
	{ihnp4,allegra,decvax}!decwrl!haynes