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Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!mhuxr!mhuxn!ihnp4!stolaf!umn-cs!mmm!schley
From: schley@mmm.UUCP (Steve Schley)
Newsgroups: net.auto
Subject: Re: Keeping Black Bumpers Black and Vanity Plates
Message-ID: <189@mmm.UUCP>
Date: Mon, 23-Sep-85 15:06:29 EDT
Article-I.D.: mmm.189
Posted: Mon Sep 23 15:06:29 1985
Date-Received: Mon, 30-Sep-85 01:08:09 EDT
References: <1128@homxa.UUCP> <680@ihu1m.UUCP> <739@rduxb.UUCP>
Reply-To: schley@mmm.UUCP (Steve Schley)
Organization: 3M Company, St. Paul, Minn.
Lines: 30
Summary: 

>> > Armor All (et. al.) and shoe black, but with no favorable results.
>> > Anybody solved this earth shattering problem?
>
>> There is a product that you can buy at the hardware store that gets
>> rid of the dull black for about a month per application. It comes
>> in a black plastic bottle. I'm not sure of the name, but it's
>> something like Black Chrome polish or Black Chrome restorer. As far
>
>	I believe these bumpers are not "black chrome," but rather
>a finish which is flat black and rather rough. DON'T try the 
>above stuff! Sorry, but I don't have any ideas what to try.

The stuff available at the automotive department is called Black
Chrome, and I think it is a Simoniz product (someone big in that
business, anyway).  I have used it on black metallic surfaces as well
as black plastic, and it works as advertised.  Be sure to work it into
the surface -- I found a toothbrush works well on my pebble-grained
plastic molding.

Wax residue is _tough_ to remove, even with this product.  I really had
to scrub.  I hope that using this "preservative" will make removing
future residue easier.  The dealer says that they use a petrochemical
solvent in their body shop to remove residue, and recommended starting
with the milder stuff (mineral spirits), then moving to harsher stuff
if necessary.  Be careful not to dissolve your plastic!  I decided to
use elbow grease and Black Chrome instead.
-- 
	Steve Schley

	ihnp4!mmm!schley


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