Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/18/84; site brl-tgr.ARPA Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!allegra!mit-eddie!genrad!panda!talcott!harvard!seismo!brl-tgr!wmartin From: wmartin@brl-tgr.ARPA (Will Martin ) Newsgroups: net.consumers Subject: Re: Knife ads Message-ID: <2064@brl-tgr.ARPA> Date: Fri, 11-Oct-85 14:26:25 EDT Article-I.D.: brl-tgr.2064 Posted: Fri Oct 11 14:26:25 1985 Date-Received: Mon, 14-Oct-85 03:29:12 EDT References: <858@cvl.UUCP> <2023@brl-tgr.ARPA> Reply-To: wmartin@brl-bmd.UUCP Distribution: net Organization: USAMC ALMSA, St. Louis, MO Lines: 41 And yet another point I forgot to include: The "saw-teeth" on the back of these Taiwanese knives are worthless, merely "decorative". They have no sharpness at all. (They might work as fish scalers, though -- just thought of that.) This model knife does, however, come with a wire saw and two split rings (like keyrings) to use as handles on the saw. This will work better than the saw teeth on the back of most "Rambo"-style survival knives, even much more expensive ones. The problem with sawteeth on a knifeblade back is that the teeth have no offset, so they can't work like a real wood saw functions, with the sawblade being narrower than the kerf. These teeth are shaped like: _____ _____ |/|/|/|/|/|/|/|/|/ Most fancier survival knives have square-cut teeth, with the top either a sharp edge or a flat-cut block, but the cuts are clean and make a sharp right-angle edge on their sides. These are like: _____ __ __ __ __ _____ |_| |_| |_| |_| |_| The other style of teeth on the back of a survival knife blade are triangular, like this: _____ ______ \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ (The points should come up to the line of the blade back.) These are originally designed as aircrew survival knives, and this form of teeth really does work in cutting through the thin aluminum skin of a helicopter or light aircraft (so you can hack yourself an escape hatch before the beast blows up). They're not much good on wood, though. Yet another kind has alternating right and left-pointing triangular teeth, cut into the blade from the top. (I don't think I can ASCII-draw that.) These work better than most others, but are also more expensive to make, and still clog with cuttings on wood. Some of the old WWI-era "engineer" bayonets had teeth like that; I have a Swiss 1889 or 1911 model with beautiful teeth -- such work would probably cost $500 nowadays... Will