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From: kanner@tymix.UUCP (Herb Kanner)
Newsgroups: net.rec.photo
Subject: Re: Free Markets and Product Quality
Message-ID: <556@tymix.UUCP>
Date: Mon, 14-Oct-85 12:41:21 EDT
Article-I.D.: tymix.556
Posted: Mon Oct 14 12:41:21 1985
Date-Received: Wed, 16-Oct-85 05:27:45 EDT
References: <298@tekig4.UUCP> <349@vaxwaller.UUCP>
Reply-To: kanner@tymix.UUCP (Herb Kanner)
Distribution: net
Organization: Tymnet Inc., Cupertino CA
Lines: 24
Summary: 

In article <349@vaxwaller.UUCP> chip@vaxwaller.UUCP (Chip Kozy) writes:
>	As an aside, does anyone out there know how to get good sharp
>prints from 35MM slides?  
>
Since you say you are a color photographer without a darkroom, this may not
be of interest to you, but I have never had any sharpness problems making
prints on either Cibachrome, on the late-lamented Ektachrome 14, on
Ektachrome 22, or on 2203 paper.  I gave up on Cibachrome after a year of
trying because of the excess contrast and excess color saturation.

Most commercial shops, and I believe this includes Kodak, make an
inter-negative from your slide and then print that on the same paper used
for color negative originals.  A real custom lab will probably make the
inter-negative of the size 4 x 5 and charge you accordingly.  Kodak and the
other mass production places make a small inter-negative; I don't remember
the exact size, but it is something like 2 x 3.  This could reduce
sharpness.  Some commercial shops advertise that they print on Cibachrome.
This would be professional Ciba, which I suspect is even more contrasty
than the amateur stuff.  You might give that a try.  I do not know of any
shops using the conventional reversal papers, such as Ektachrome 22.
-- 
Herb Kanner
Tymnet, Inc.
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