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From: davidsen@steinmetz.UUCP (Davidsen)
Newsgroups: net.auto.tech
Subject: Re: Oil burning and piston rings
Message-ID: <324@steinmetz.UUCP>
Date: Thu, 14-Nov-85 08:58:45 EST
Article-I.D.: steinmet.324
Posted: Thu Nov 14 08:58:45 1985
Date-Received: Mon, 18-Nov-85 07:12:00 EST
References: <314@g.cs.cmu.edu.ARPA> <187@cdstar.UUCP> <289@watmum.UUCP> <518@ttidcb.UUCP> <317@watmum.UUCP>
Reply-To: davidsen@kbsvax.UUCP (Davidsen)
Organization: GE CRD, Schenectady, NY
Lines: 27
Keywords: ring job
Summary: It's not *quite* that simple

In article <317@watmum.UUCP> gvcormack@watmum.UUCP (Gordon V. Cormack) writes:
>It is not hard to replace the piston rings at home.  You need a
>socket set, a torque wrench, a ring compressor, and drive-on ramps
>(or a jack and axle stands).
>

There was a lot of good advice in this message, but there is one tool which
probably will be needed, a ridge reamer. By the time a ring job is needed, a
ridge usually builds up at the top of the cylinder. This should be removed
before trying to remove the piston from the block. use of force to get the
piston out may break the old rings (no big deal) or damage the ring groves in
the piston (ouch).

I also recomment using plastigage to measure the bearing clearance rather than
"shake it and see if it sounds loose". This is available at good auto stores,
and costs only a few bucks.

Before removing the rods the bolts should be wrapped with masking tape or
should have pieces of old rubber hose put on them. This prevents maring the
crankshaft as the rods go in or out.

Good luck with your ring job!
-- 
	billD	(..seismo!rochester!steinmetz!crdos1!davidsen)
		(davidsen@GE-CRD.ARPA)

"It seemed like a good idea at the time..."