Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: $Revision: 1.6.2.16 $; site haddock.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!cbosgd!ihnp4!qantel!lll-crg!ucdavis!ucbvax!decvax!cca!haddock!marc From: marc@haddock.UUCP Newsgroups: net.auto Subject: Re: Orphaned Response Message-ID: <106500003@haddock.UUCP> Date: Fri, 6-Dec-85 10:59:00 EST Article-I.D.: haddock.106500003 Posted: Fri Dec 6 10:59:00 1985 Date-Received: Tue, 10-Dec-85 06:11:57 EST References: <3069@sdcc3.UUCP> Lines: 79 Nf-ID: #R:sdcc3:-306900:haddock:106500003:177600:3417 Nf-From: haddock!marc Dec 6 10:59:00 1985 1) Are they still good buys (i.e. how quickly do they depreciate)? In my opinion, yes they are still good buys and in proper condition or restoration they usually retain or gain in value. 2) Which years are considered the cherry years? I have owned a '71, '74, '75 and consider the '74 the best out of the lot. Note: all had manual transmision and no air. 3) What bugs have been found? How can I look for them when examining a prospective buy? Odviously these cars are almost all owned by enthueists who like to "drive" them. Therefore inspect it as if it were a sports car. - Test for even compresion. - Test for transmision noise. Also, many of these cars are used year-round (in snow). The rocker panels, wheel wells and the top and rear areas of the front side panels are known to be problem rust spots. The front wheel well rust can easily lead to major structural problems around the front struts! Bring a small maginet with you to determine how much plastic has been used on vehicles that have been restored. 4) What advantage does the tii have? I've heard good things about it. What does this model have that normal 2002s don't? The tii version was originally desinged as a higher performing car with fuel injection. It was only available for later models, although it is reletivly easy to convert the older models. The main differences are a better design of the head and higher compresion pistons. This model is ideally suited for high performance modifications for rally use. Adding twin side draft webers, a higher grind cam and other misc. changes makes for one hell of a performer. 5) What's the going rate for a newer model (square taillights) in good repair (i.e. engine, transmission, brakes in excellent shape)? Currently, in the market place that I am in, a '72 or newer model is coming in for around $5000 as long as it is in good repair or restoration. 6) What's the going rate for a older model (round taillights) in good repair (i.e. engine, transmission, brakes in excellent shape)? Pre '72 models can, depending upon modifications and condition, can go up into the same class as the post '72 models. 7) How much do parts cost? Are they readily available? Parts are readily available (try Bap-Geon) and tend to cost about what you would expect for any "Yuppie" type of car. Also junk yards many times have the little incidentals you might need to properly restore a car. 8) Are they cars which need to be babied? Am I going to be spending most of my spare time fine tuning? I prefer to think of these cars as a hobbie (as they have been for me... I have totally restored the 3 that I have owned from poor condition). They do need attension as soon as a problem crops up and before it causes others. They do make great year round vehicles and are usually long lasting and quite reliable, although the maintenance cost is a bit higher then a cheapy american car of the same vintage. My reccommendation is to find a '74 to '76 model either tii or not with manual transmission that needs body work. Pay a body shop to fix up the car (after having an estimate) or repair the body yourself. If the engine eats too much oil, have the rings replaced and the valves ground. This approach should give you great sporty sedan that will last for a long time with proper maintenance. GOOD LUCK and enjoy... Marc Evans WB1GRH Interactive Systems Boston, MA