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From: fish@ihlpg.UUCP (Bob Fishell)
Newsgroups: net.bicycle
Subject: Re: Freewheels, gearing, etc.
Message-ID: <1472@ihlpg.UUCP>
Date: Mon, 9-Dec-85 18:46:46 EST
Article-I.D.: ihlpg.1472
Posted: Mon Dec  9 18:46:46 1985
Date-Received: Tue, 10-Dec-85 07:22:55 EST
References: <539@harvard.UUCP>
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Lines: 62

> I've decided that it is time to change my freewheel, and to make a new
> set of wheels. It has been such a long time since I looked at
> freewheels and hubs that I am almost totally lost as I try and make a
> few decisions. My questions are:
> 
>       o	5, 6, or (gasp!) 7 speed freewheels? Back when I was actively
> 	buying bicycle stuff there were only a few 6 speed freewheels
> 	available, and they were hard enough to shift that not too
> 	many people bothered with them. Now it seems that 6 speeds are
> 	common place, with 7 speeds gaining. What can you tell me
> 	about these?
>

A 5-spd freewheel will fit anything.  The 6-speed jobs come in standard and
ultra widths, depending on your frame/hub spread.  7-spd freewheels are
ultras that fit on 6-speed hubs, as ultra sixes fit on 5-speed hubs.
Standards are easier to shift than ultras, because the cogs are not so
close together. Standard 5's are a bit easier to shift through all gears
than standard 6's, but they're not as hard to adjust to as ultras are.
Having never tried a seven, I can't comment on them, but I suspect theyre
trickier than anything else.  In any case, a good derailleur is called
for.

>       o	Do I need a special chain for the higher speed freewheels?

For an ultra, yes. You must use a narrow chain like the Sedisport.  I like
the Sedisport well enough to use on my Trek, which has standard spacing;
you can use a narrow chain just fine on standard freewheels, but not the
other way around.

> 
>       o	Are the wired on tires really as good as the folks at
> 	Specialized claim them to be? I've been riding on tubulars for
> 	years and have gotten pretty good at repairing them, but I've
> 	gotten a little lazier too, and don't want to work so hard.

They're tougher, and you have a bigger tread selection than you do with
tubulars.  They're not as responsive as tubulars, but they're not nearly
as fragile.  Clinchers are harder to change, but you can ususally get by
just carrying a patch kit and a set of tire irons, rather than having to
fold up a tire to take with you.  Clinchers can be folded, like a
pretzel (sort of), but I've never bothered.  All the flats I've ever gotten
have been repairable either by patching or a new tube.  Since you'll
probably get fewer flats with clinchers, they're more the lazy man's
tire. I use the Specialized Touring II's on both my bikes, and I like
them.

By the way, if you're going to a clincher rim, I strongly recommend the
Mavic G40; it's very, very durable.

> 
>       o	What about sealed hubs? The only one available way back when
> 	were Phil Woods.
> 

Shimano 600 EX hubs are sealed.  So, I think, are Dura-ace.

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				Bob Fishell
				ihnp4!ihlpg!fish