Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/18/84; site dciem.UUCP Path: utzoo!dciem!bruce From: bruce@dciem.UUCP (Bruce Ferguson) Newsgroups: net.auto.tech Subject: Re: 280Z Problems Message-ID: <1769@dciem.UUCP> Date: Fri, 17-Jan-86 11:08:15 EST Article-I.D.: dciem.1769 Posted: Fri Jan 17 11:08:15 1986 Date-Received: Fri, 17-Jan-86 13:20:21 EST References: <1604@hound.UUCP> Reply-To: bruce@dciem.UUCP (PUT YOUR NAME HERE) Organization: D.C.I.E.M., Toronto, Canada Lines: 21 Summary: stuff more I have occasionally found that U-joints look fine upon inspection , but can never the less be kaput. (brilliant statement). What is required, is to torque the suspect joint quite firmly, and look for any movement of the cross-piece in the bearing cup. If only one end of the cross has a failing bearing, it is possible that to a non-strong-arm inspection, all will appear well. Obviously under accelleration (or strong engine braking), the torque on these units is considerable, and so should it be when you are snooping for a bad U-joint. Perhaps a helper with a wrench on the front crankshaft pulley bolt, 1st gear, and the handbrake set will reveal something. It is also possible that the higher torque multiplication in the lower gears, causes the drive line to twist in its mounts enough for some thing to touch where it could make a noise (ie.the exhaust system). This might point to weakening engine or driveline mounts, or an improperly positioned exhaust system. Maybe this would also be revealed by winding-up the driveline with a wrench, as described.