Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/17/84; site mhuxl.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!mhuxr!mhuxt!mhuxv!mhuxh!mhuxi!mhuxl!smh From: smh@mhuxl.UUCP (henning) Newsgroups: net.consumers Subject: Re: Space heater info wanted Message-ID: <436@mhuxl.UUCP> Date: Wed, 8-Jan-86 09:02:04 EST Article-I.D.: mhuxl.436 Posted: Wed Jan 8 09:02:04 1986 Date-Received: Thu, 9-Jan-86 02:48:10 EST References: <894@whuxlm.UUCP> <655@cylixd.UUCP> <769@lasspvax.UUCP> <432@mhuxl.UUCP> <674@ttrdc.UUCP> Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories, Murray Hill Lines: 14 From the keys of Steve Henning, AT&T Bell Labs, Reading, PA mhuxl!smh > >I had a similar problem and solved it for $10. You buy an electric heat > >thermostat, a duplex outlet, a double box, and a length of 15 amp heater > >cord. > > Warning 2: Be sure the contacts of the thermostat are rated both for the > voltage and the current involved (read the rating sticker > or plate on the heater). The 24 volt low current type thermostats just won't do and will burn up. The electric heat thermostat I mentioned is a 110/220v "In-line" Thermostat that is used to control all the electric heat in a room: typically 220v and 4000w. Your department store heaters are restricted to 120v and 1500w.