Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: Notesfiles; site gypsy.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!allegra!princeton!siemens!gypsy!rws From: rws@gypsy.UUCP Newsgroups: net.garden Subject: Re: square foot gardening Message-ID: <25900019@gypsy.UUCP> Date: Mon, 20-Jan-86 09:26:00 EST Article-I.D.: gypsy.25900019 Posted: Mon Jan 20 09:26:00 1986 Date-Received: Wed, 22-Jan-86 05:13:51 EST References: <6787@duke.UUCP> Lines: 31 Nf-ID: #R:duke:-678700:gypsy:25900019:000:1316 Nf-From: gypsy!rws Jan 20 09:26:00 1986 I'm surprised that other respondents have so readily accepted the idea of putting commercial soil mix on top. A little imagination and one year of patience will yield dramatic results, without huge expenditures: 1) Dig the new beds by hand, removing any rocks larger than 3/4". Make sure you get a full foot of depth. If there is grass on top now, great! Organize your digging as a "moving trench", so that you can lay the old sod upside down in the bottom of the trench, then pile soil on top of it while making the next trench. Take care not to walk on the freshly dug soil. 2) If you don't have access to large quantities of compost or other organic material, apply THREE INCHES of peat moss! Dig it in to the top six inches or so, along with enough lime to balance your pH. (In the eastern US it is almost impossible to use too much lime, because the soil only dissolves what it needs.) The finer the grind of the limestone, the sooner it will work. 3) Plan soil amendments into every year's garden. I like using winter rye as a cover crop, and digging it in in the spring. Just make sure not to plant it on a few beds, so that you can plant peas even before the soil is dry enough to dig. Happy gardening! Bob Schwanke Siemens Research Princeton, NJ 08540-6668 seismo!princeton!siemens!rws