Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.3 4.3bsd-beta 6/6/85; site crystal.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!bellcore!decvax!genrad!panda!talcott!harvard!uwvax!crystal!bill From: bill@crystal.UUCP (Bill Cox) Newsgroups: net.micro.mac Subject: Re: "Ultrasonic" hearing Message-ID: <25@crystal.UUCP> Date: Sun, 19-Jan-86 12:26:51 EST Article-I.D.: crystal.25 Posted: Sun Jan 19 12:26:51 1986 Date-Received: Tue, 21-Jan-86 08:09:54 EST References: <1280@brl-tgr.ARPA> <590@harvard.UUCP> <11370@ucbvax.BERKELEY.EDU> <464@tekig4.UUCP> Distribution: net Organization: U of Wisconsin CS Dept Lines: 45 Summary: Mac noise problems and (?) solutions > >I have had the same problem with my Mac, and also found that the "sharp rasp" > >(read: "swift kick") solution is usually effective. Why is this? I never > >had the problem before I blew my power supply, and had to replace the analog > >board. Can anybody suggest a possible solution (or a reason why this problem > >would suddenly crop up, for that matter)? > > I also am interested in a solution to this one! My home Mac will (sometimes) > suddenly take up this squeal (I assume 15.5kHz) after a half hour of silent > running. Of course, when I attempt to run it without the case so that I can > identify the offender, it never heats up enough to start this up. My mac is now on its third analog board. My original problem was that the left edge of the screen bowed in when text was highlighted (you could see a "dogleg" effect, around 5 screen pixels). Diagnosis: bad analog board; replaced. After replacement, there was a LOUD whistle, either a high flyback whine or something else (arcing?). Noise disappeared when the disk drives ran. It was so bad that I had to wear hearing protectors while using it. The newer analog boards have a silicone anode cap (that fits on the CRT), whereas my old one had a black rubber(?) one. A non-[electrically]conductive silicone grease on the silicone cap reduced the noise considerably. Apple's technical people told my dealer that either (1) a line filter/surge arrestor should be used; (2) the anode cap should be relubricated; or (3) replace the analog board. In my case, I use (1), (2) didn't do any more good, and the analog board died when the HV adjustments were tried. CAUTION: If you attempt the lubrication, KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING ! ! ! The voltage at the anode cap could KILL YOU ! ! ! I assume NO responsibility whatsoever for any use of this information. bill cox -- William Cox Computer Sciences Department University of Wisconsin, Madison WI bill@wisc.crys.edu ...{ihnp4,seismo,allegra}!uwvax!bill