Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP
Posting-Version: Notesfiles $Revision: 1.7.0.10 $; site sysvis
Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!mhuxr!mhuxt!houxm!mtuxo!drutx!ihnp4!inuxc!pur-ee!uiucdcs!convex!sysvis!george
From: george@sysvis
Newsgroups: net.rec.photo
Subject: Re: Exposure compensation
Message-ID: <-121429371@sysvis>
Date: Mon, 13-Jan-86 14:52:00 EST
Article-I.D.: sysvis.-121429371
Posted: Mon Jan 13 14:52:00 1986
Date-Received: Fri, 17-Jan-86 06:58:42 EST
References: <75@ttidcc.UUCP>
Lines: 20
Nf-ID: #R:ttidcc.UUCP:75:sysvis:-121429371:000:1289
Nf-From: sysvis!george    Jan 13 13:52:00 1986


> .. the author recommends overexposing color negative film by 1/3 stop and
> underexposing positive color film by 1/3 stop.

Sensitometric data confirms that this is a very good rule of thumb to use.  I
have done it for years.  Combine this method with a polarizing filter for most
outdoor daylight shots to give your pictures a decided enhancement.  I now use
Kodachrome 64 and VR-100 films in a 35mm camera whose ASA meter setting remains
at 80 at all times.  The slide results are very pleasing (more saturated colors
+ highlights with more detail) and the negatives are exposed long enough to
PRINT shadows and highlights correctly.  One pro that I know ALWAYS shoots ASA
200 negative film metered at ASA 100 for portrait/wedding work.  This allows
him the greatest latitude in PRINTING his shadow/highlight balances.

The results are very pleasing to the eye.  One warning though.  Even very good
negatives can be PRINTED by machines run by less than craftsmanlike people.
This possibly can cancel the effects of your careful exposure balance.  Choose
the really good negatives for enlargement and THEN you will see the fruits of
your labors.  It is not the size of the enlargement that makes the difference,
it is rather in the ability of the person printing it to match contrasts.