Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!cbosgd!gatech!ut-sally!utastro!fbr From: fbr@utastro.UUCP (Frank Ray) Newsgroups: net.rec.wood Subject: Re: Finish advice needed Message-ID: <301@utastro.UUCP> Date: Wed, 22-Jan-86 13:00:36 EST Article-I.D.: utastro.301 Posted: Wed Jan 22 13:00:36 1986 Date-Received: Thu, 23-Jan-86 09:53:56 EST References: <505@milano.UUCP> Organization: U. Texas, Astronomy, Austin, TX Lines: 31 Keywords: finish oak cabinet Summary: wood finishes In article <505@milano.UUCP>, sandel@milano.UUCP writes: > I am remodelling my house and have just installed my kitchen cabinets. > I had them custom-made from "rift-cut" red oak plywood. > ... > I want a clear finish that, if > possible, preserves the "pinkish" tint of the oak. Since they are > in the kitchen, the finish also needs to be water resistant and should > not scratch or mar easily. So far, the best I've been able to come up with > is to put a "sanding sealer" on them and then 2 or 3 coats of clear > polyurethane. > > Does anyone have any comments about this type of finish or recommendations > as to others? Thanx! > > -- > Charles Sandel @ MCC Software Technology > sandel@mcc.arpa sally!im4u!milano!sandel utastro!charles sally!charles Hi, Charles. You have to be sure that the sanding sealer you use is compatible with the polyurethane. You can thin the first coat of polyurethane quite a bit, until it's watery; it will penetrate the oak and raise the grain. Then after it dries, you can sand the fuzz off with about 200 grit paper. The next coats acn go on not as thinned. Finally, if you want to kill the gloss on the last coat, after it's dried thoroughly, you can use 0000 steel wool to buff it lightly. Then you'll have a water-resistant, tough, non-glossy finish. After about 3 careful coats, taking off the fuzz between each, you'll probably be getting to a sound finish. I did a mesquite piece this way, something which is exposed to the weather a lot, and it worked well. fbr