Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.3 alpha 4/15/85; site pucc-i Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!mhuxr!mhuxn!ihnp4!inuxc!pur-ee!pucc-j!pucc-i!afc From: afc@pucc-i (Greg Flint) Newsgroups: net.rec.photo Subject: Re: Wildlife photography Message-ID: <1260@pucc-i> Date: Mon, 27-Jan-86 12:21:18 EST Article-I.D.: pucc-i.1260 Posted: Mon Jan 27 12:21:18 1986 Date-Received: Wed, 29-Jan-86 04:13:49 EST References: <933@watmath.UUCP> Reply-To: afc@pucc-i.UUCP (Greg Flint) Distribution: net Organization: Purdue University Computing Center Lines: 46 Keywords: wildlife photography Before anyone can make suggestions about wildlife photography, it is essential to know what it is that you want to photograph. For example, fish, frogs, birds in flight and racoons all need different film, flash and equipment. So, in order to give a reasonable answer to your question, I'll make the assumption that you do not intend, at least initially, to do any of the following types of photography: 1) underwater, 2) ultra-high speed, 3) remote control or 4) night-time flash. Rather, for the sake of giving a "useful" answer, I will presume that you want to do something "simple" like take a picture of a bird (e.g., a robin) feeding its young in its nest. If possible, try to use a lens in the 300-600 mm range. This should allow you to get a good shot without getting too close. I prefer a lens opening that gives about f4.0 (or wide-open, if your lens isn't that fast). This allows a little latitude in focusing on the subject and yet keeps the background (and foreground) from intruding. The amount of light dictates what speed of film to use. A reasonably fast shutter speed (1/250th or faster) is best, but I have been successful shooting as slow as 1/15. I prefer to use the brand of film that best shows the color of my subject (e.g., Kodachrome for reds and yellows, Ectachrome for blues and Fuji for greens). I would rather shoot slide film than print film even though my final result is a print. I tend to underexpose by about 1/3 stop to enhance the colors. *** NO FLAMES, PLEASE *** I've no doubt that someone on the net would be willing to tell you to use almost the opposite of what I've mentioned (e.g., very long lens, f22+, ultra-fast or slow shutter speed and a different film). They probably are correct in what they say. The "proper" set up depends a lot on the image that the photographer has in mind. ----------------------------------------------- Greg Flint @ Purdue University Computing Center UUCP: purdue!pucc-i!afc -or- purdue!gdf -or- pur-ee!gdf ARPA: afc@asc.purdue.edu -or- gdf@ee.purdue.edu USMAIL: Math-Science Bldg Purdue University West Lafayette, IN 47907 PHONE: (317) 494-1787