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From: rcd@opus.UUCP (Dick Dunn)
Newsgroups: net.wines
Subject: Re: Brewing Beer
Message-ID: <347@opus.UUCP>
Date: Mon, 27-Jan-86 03:41:37 EST
Article-I.D.: opus.347
Posted: Mon Jan 27 03:41:37 1986
Date-Received: Wed, 29-Jan-86 06:32:06 EST
References: <365@watmum.UUCP> <139@slu70.UUCP>
Distribution: na
Organization: NBI,Inc, Boulder CO
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> > I'd like to start brewing my own beer and was wondering if anyone had
> > any pointers. I think, for the first batch at least, I'd like to use 
> > one of those "kits" with everything included...
>
> I haven't been involved in beer making for awhile but this is the best I
> can recall. Most homebrews are a mixture of malt and sugar. They're somewhat
> easier to make that way than all malt brews which can be a bit tricky...
> ...In short I recommend
> that you stay away from all malt brews for your first try. By all means try
> ales. Our best home brew (out of twenty or thirty batches) was an ale.

Dead wrong on the business of sugar vs. malt.  The reason that most starter
kits use a combination of malt and sugar is that malt is a bunch more
expensive--malt is close to $2 a pound.  Plus, these folks have to ship the
malt with their kits, and it's heavy.  They can tell you to go buy sugar at
the store.

In fact, an all-malt brew is MORE likely to be successful.  (Reasons below)
On the other hand, it's true that you're better off starting with an ale,
probably an amber ale, when you get started.

Suggestions:  Look for a kit that's got a large quantity of malt, or use
two kits' worth of malt and skip the sugar (except at bottling).  Other
than that--find successful homebrewers and talk to them.  There is only one
secret to successful homebrewing:  KEEP IT CLEAN!  That can't be overempha-
sized--the ONLY bad homebrews I have ever tasted got that way because of
contamination.  (Little microbeasties get into the brew and make odd
tastes.  But don't worry--none of the contaminant bacteria, molds, etc.
that prey on beer seem to have ill effects on health.)

Why all-malt brews?
	* better body.  Sugar contributes only alcohol, no taste or body.
	* less tendency to a "cidery" taste which is somehow the result of
	  slight contamination combined with some (widely observed but
	  poorly understood) effect of sugar on fermenting wort.
Why start with a medium ale?
	* very light brews are difficult to make even for more experienced
	  brewers.
	* lager yeast starts fermenting slower than ale yeast.  The period
	  between adding yeast and the start of fermentation is the time
	  when the beer is most susceptible to contamination taking hold;
	  ale yeast reduces this period a lot.
	* Ales are ready to drink a lot sooner.  How long do you want to
	  watch those two cases waiting to taste your work?
	* Ale yeast is less critical about fermentation temperatures--
	  basement temperature is fine for it.
	* Frankly, if you have a hearty tasting brew, it will mask any
	  minor off-tastes while you're learning.  You'll be able to enjoy
	  it more.
	* On the other hand, a very dark brew (like a stout) can be so 
	  overwhelming that you won't be able to critique it decently.  You
	  need a taste that's open enough that you can pick out the effects
	  of various ingredients and techniques.  You want to be able to
	  find the off tastes so that you can fix them, but you also want
	  to be able to ignore them when you're just enjoying the beer.
-- 
Dick Dunn	{hao,ucbvax,allegra}!nbires!rcd		(303)444-5710 x3086
   ...I'm not cynical - just experienced.