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From: animal@ihlpa.UUCP (D. Starr)
Newsgroups: net.cycle
Subject: Re: locks and alarms
Message-ID: <1182@ihlpa.UUCP>
Date: Thu, 6-Mar-86 11:14:38 EST
Article-I.D.: ihlpa.1182
Posted: Thu Mar  6 11:14:38 1986
Date-Received: Fri, 7-Mar-86 07:28:02 EST
References: <966@h-sc1.UUCP>
Distribution: net
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Lines: 45

> 
>    Now that I've invested in a second bike (honda XL600R), after 4 months of
> mouring over the theft of my last bike (same type), I'm wondering how to 
> make sure this one doesn't get ripped off too.   I'd appreciate any comments
> regarding the best types of locks (eg.  kryptonite is good but you can't tie the
> bike to something with it).   What do people think about alarms for bikes?
> 
>     thanks.

I've been using the "Maxim 75" cable lock for just about ten years now, and
am very happy with it.  This thing is a 7 foot length of 3/4" stainless
steel cable, rubber covered, and equipped with one of those round-key locks
like you see on vending machines.  It is *very* tough; the stainless cable
resists most solvents (acids, etc.) and you'd need an oxyacetylene torch and
some time to cut it, and the recessed lock is just about impervious to
harm.  In the ten years I've used it, my bikes (including some expensive
Harleys) have never been messed with.  Disadvantages are weight (close to
10 pounds) and bulk (about the best you can do is loop it into a 15" circle
and bungee it on the back seat).  I think they also sell a storage case that
you can hang on one side of the bike.

I'd skip a chain-and-padlock setup because chains are cut rather easily
(consider that a very heavy chain only has about 3/8" thick links).  I'd
also stay away from the "cobra-link" style lock because I've heard of people
who know the trick being able to take one apart in a couple minutes (though
they do look great).  Finally, I'd stay away from the gizmos that lock
on to the brake disk to keep the bike from rolling because they can be
broken if you're willing to damage the bike a little.

On related topics, the XL600R is a dual-purpose bike, right?  That's both
good and bad.  On the good side, it means that you're probably not the target
of professional thieves; they tend to attack bikes that can be taken apart
and sold at swap meets, like (unfortunately) Harleys, so the most 
important job of your lock is to prevent roll-away, "joyride" theft.  This
means that it should immobilize the rear wheel and be nice and conspicuous.
On the bad side, you should know that your ignition switch may be beatable
with nothing more than a pair of wire snippers.  On many off-road machines
with kick starters, the ignition system is powered by a crankshaft magneto,
and the "off" position of the switch simply *grounds* its output, so cutting
the wire permits starting without the key.  Check your wiring diagram on 
this, not all bikes are the same.  If you do have a grounding-type switch,
you may want to rig a concealed toggle switch to cut power at the ignition
module.

Dan Starr