Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Path: utzoo!linus!philabs!cmcl2!seismo!hao!nbires!rcd From: rcd@nbires.UUCP (Dick Dunn) Newsgroups: net.wines Subject: Re: My first homebrew Message-ID: <618@nbires.UUCP> Date: Wed, 19-Feb-86 02:45:13 EST Article-I.D.: nbires.618 Posted: Wed Feb 19 02:45:13 1986 Date-Received: Fri, 21-Feb-86 08:14:19 EST References: <1132@decwrl.DEC.COM> Organization: NBI,Inc, Boulder CO Lines: 25 Talking about the mistake in measuring on that first batch... > Take this with a grain of salt, since this is not from experience, but just > a guess. It seems to me you've got a great chance of exploding most if not > all your current bottles. My reasoning is this: the fermentation will stop > not when all the food (starch/sugar) is consumed by the yeast, but when the > alcohol concentration gets to the point of inhibiting further growth... > ...If your yeast has a high tolerance for alcohol then all the sugar in the > brew would have been fermented out, and everything is OK... Even with the problem cited in the grandparent article (off by a factor of two in quantity of water) you'd have a hard time killing off the yeast. Ale yeast can be used for barleywines, which have starting gravities pushing 1.100, without giving out. A typical first-batch homebrew will be in the range 1.035-1.045, so even halving the initial water puts you at 1.070-1.090. This is still ok for any good yeast. > I think you could try opening a bottle early to see how it's doing. If the > cap flies off and beer froths all over you might consider popping them all > rather than lose many bottles to undesirable explosions. If you suspect a potential for exploding bottles, be VERY careful. Be sure you're dealing with a cooled bottle, by the way. Also, a gusher can be caused by contamination as easily as by overcarbonation.