Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/5/84; site zaphod.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!mhuxr!mhuxn!ihnp4!alberta!sask!zaphod!dkatz From: dkatz@zaphod.UUCP (Dave Katz) Newsgroups: net.consumers Subject: Re: Furnace Humidifiers Message-ID: <417@zaphod.UUCP> Date: Fri, 7-Mar-86 10:08:17 EST Article-I.D.: zaphod.417 Posted: Fri Mar 7 10:08:17 1986 Date-Received: Sun, 9-Mar-86 08:35:42 EST References: <4@mit-prep.ARPA> <1131@lsuc.UUCP> Reply-To: dkatz@zaphod.UUCP (Dave Katz) Organization: Develcon Electronics, Saskatoon, SK Lines: 19 Summary: If you have leaky walls, then when the temperature is below freezing the excess humidity will penetrate the walls and form ice inside the (hopefully) insulated space. The result is lost R-value ( insulating strength) in the short term leading to higher fuel bills, and trapped moisture in the longer term leading to wood rot. In any house that does not have a very sound vapor barrier, the humidity should be kept as low a tolerable during the winter. The manufacturers recommended humidity settings are little more than the maximum humidity that can be supported in a house with double glazed windows without getting condensation on the glass. This may be indicative of what is going on elsewhere in the structure. In a well sealed house with triple glazing, the recommendation would be for and RH of about 39.2% when the outside temperature is -40 and inside is "comfortable" (around 72F or 22C) D.K.