Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: Notesfiles $Revision: 1.7.0.10 $; site uok.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!mhuxr!mhuxn!ihnp4!inuxc!pur-ee!uiucdcs!okstate.UUCP!uok.UUCP!jamitche From: jamitche@uok.UUCP Newsgroups: net.cycle Subject: Re: Shims Message-ID: <1500001@uok.UUCP> Date: Sun, 16-Mar-86 19:45:00 EST Article-I.D.: uok.1500001 Posted: Sun Mar 16 19:45:00 1986 Date-Received: Fri, 21-Mar-86 03:25:57 EST References: <8800034@uiucdcs> Lines: 16 Nf-ID: #R:uiucdcs:8800034:uok.UUCP:1500001:000:865 Nf-From: uok.UUCP!jamitche Mar 16 18:45:00 1986 Can't answer for Kawasaki but I'm real familiar with Honda shims (I used to own a '81 CB900F)(before some CAR driver totalled it for me) and yes, shims are no big deal, just a pain. Firstly, you don't know what shims you'll need till you've got the old ones out.(oh yeah, measure the valve/shim clearance beforehand, in the method your manual says).The shim'll probably be numbered somewhere. If not, you'll have to take a micrometer to it. (don't be scared, a cheap mic costs $8.00 at a hardware store). You'll probably also need SPECIAL TOOLS to get to these shims. If they're like honda's, you really do need the special tools, too. Here's a hint, make a map. Measure all the valves, take 'em all out, record their codes or thicknesses on the map. Then go down to the dealer. Keep the map. Next time you do this, you can see how much they've worn.