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From: jordan@ucbarpa.berkeley.edu (Jordan Hayes)
Newsgroups: net.rec.photo
Subject: Re: Upgrading an old Nikkormat
Message-ID: <12408@ucbvax.BERKELEY.EDU>
Date: Sat, 15-Mar-86 14:47:53 EST
Article-I.D.: ucbvax.12408
Posted: Sat Mar 15 14:47:53 1986
Date-Received: Mon, 17-Mar-86 03:19:12 EST
References: <126@rruxd.UUCP>
Sender: usenet@ucbvax.BERKELEY.EDU
Reply-To: ucbvax!jordan (Jordan Hayes)
Organization: University of California, Berkeley
Lines: 92

In article <126@rruxd.UUCP> nemes@rruxd.UUCP (R Nemes) writes:

	I am considering upgrading to an FE-2 or FM-2 for the
	following reasons:

	1. The focusing screen makes it almost impossible to focus
	   simply and accurately, especially in low light.

I got rid of my split screen on my FM-2's because of this reason. But
then again, I was "raised" on a Nikkormat ... I find those split
screens to be a hassle, and very SLOOOOOWWW ... There's nothing like
knowing what the the image is really gonna look like. Also, if you do a
lot of shooting where the main image area is not in the center of the
finder (I do -- most pros do too), it makes for a lot of difficulty in
focussing and shooting quickly and accurately. I find I can get just as
much use out of the edges of the screen as I can the middle.

	2. It is uncomfortably heavy.

Again, I guess I'm just used to it. My F-2AS is heavier. I like the
stability of a heavy camera. It makes for much easier long exposures.
Maybe you're holding it wrong. You should hold out your left palm
facing away from you and rest the entire bulk of the camera on the
middle of your palm. This allows your whole arm to support the camera
instead of just your fingers and wrist. It also allows you to focus and
change aperture with a minimum of effort, since your fingers are no
longer supporting the camera. Usually the thumb and middle finger work
the best. Then you are free to use your right hand for extra stability
on the side of the camera furthest from your left arm, and to use for
squeezing the shutter trip and winding. Using this technique, I am able
to hand hold a 135mm f/2.8 on my F-2 at up to 1/2 second.

Things are slightly different if you have a motor drive ... then you
sorta need to hold it with your right hand ... Nikkormats have one
available, but I've rarely seen it. The F-36 for the F is a beast, but
with a long lens (like the 400mm f/3.5 ED-IF) it really helps for
stability.

	3. The lack of built-in hot shoe makes attaching a flash unit
	   cumbersome.

True. However, if you have the flash holder (there is an optional thing
that *looks* like a hot shoe and attaches above the eyepiece sorta the
way olympus' do ...), you can get an adapter and solder it on and
permanently attach a PC cord to the body.

	4. I primarily use it to take pictures of my young kids, who
	   never sit still for a minute.  Having to continously adjust
	   both the focus (see 1.  above) and the exposure while waiting
	   for a good shot means I usually miss the good ones.

Well. There you have it. I've always said that the best way to buy
anything (be it cameras, computers or food) is to examine your needs,
and buy whatever is appropriate for fulfilling them. Sure, a Leica is a
terrific camera, but if it doesn't let you frame quickly enough to get
the picture of your daughter blowing out the candles, what good is it?

I think you def. need to buy your next camera based on (4). If you want
to buy Nikon because you trust them and want to use your lenses (by the
way, as has been pointed out, you will need to get your mounts changed
slightly), and would like the convience of automatic exposure, then by
all means, the FE-2 and the FA are both fine cameras to invest in.

	I was planning on the FE-2 (primarily because of 4.), but
	having read some articles on the net indicating that it is
	"flaky" makes me wonder.  Can someone tell me specifically what
	has put the FE-2 out of favor?  What about the FM-2 vs. FE-2?
	What about the FA as an alternative?

My flames are related to the comparissons made here between the FM-2
and the FE-2, since they are in no way comparable. The "flakiness" I
refer to (I think you're quoting me, among others) is what I see due to
the automatic system. Things like having no mechanical shutter trip,
and thus being prone to impotence due to battery failure.  If my
meter-battery goes on my FM-2, I can shoot without it. Besides, I don't
use the meter that often, and the batteries last a LOT longer than on
the FE-2 ... the batteries also cause flakiness at cold temperatures.

I once HAD to use an FE-2 at a fire, and it conked out on me after 15
minutes in ~30 degree F weather. Gimme an F anyday in situations like
that.

I also don't trust automatic systems as much as I trust my sense. It's
too easy to fool an automatic system. But then, I shoot a lot of slides
that don't have very good exposure latitude (like, 1/2 - a full stop,
as opposed to color print that has at least 4 stops).

I'm not really sure of how the two auto cameras (FE-2 / FA) stack up
... maybe someone else can enlighten us ...

/jordan
{ucbvax,lll-crg,nike}!jordan